dvw
Well-Known Member
So governor i
Pressure is fine. You need to test throttle valve pressure as stared in post #15.
Doug
Rebuilt 727 shifts but no downshift
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Pressure is fine. You need to test throttle valve pressure as stared in post #15.
Doug
Thank you for the reminder!
I will do that next.
And thanks to everyone who has posted ideas and answers!
I sometimes have a problem following directions in a linear path, it's always been a problem for me.
My teachers in school were never impressed.
mopar 3 B
Well-Known Member
Best to study the why, what and where before doing things. If your engine will not support it 5800 rpm shift points will not do a bit of good. This is why it's best to know the power band before making adjustments.
I take it your happy with everything but the down shift?
I take it your happy with everything but the down shift?
Thank you for telling us, most people just ask and leave us hanging. Is it in and how is it working for you?
I found a message from around the time i was doing the rebuild, i ordered the 5400 rpm governor based on advice from someone from a&a.
The shifts are kind of soft, not what I was expecting or hoping for.
The LowDown On Stock Torqueflite Kick-Down Linkage
I found a link to this article on this site.
It states that at idle, the lever should be right where you start to feel resistance.
That makes me think that I've been wrong on my kickdown adjustment.
Granted the article is referring to a cable set up, but the mechanical linkage should follow the same theory?..... right?
I've never paid attention to where it was at idle. Just that the lever went to the end of its travel when at WOT.
which is how I've been doing it forever
I found a link to this article on this site.
It states that at idle, the lever should be right where you start to feel resistance.
That makes me think that I've been wrong on my kickdown adjustment.
Granted the article is referring to a cable set up, but the mechanical linkage should follow the same theory?..... right?
I've never paid attention to where it was at idle. Just that the lever went to the end of its travel when at WOT.
which is how I've been doing it forever
I read that same article. Thats what led me to adjust my cable tighter (which moved the starting position of the lever on the transmission further back). I think with the proper factory setup, the only thing that matters is WOT since the rod length, carb and TB lever lengths are the proper ratio/lenght, the low setting will be close enough. Once anything is changed from factory, all bets are off.
If its the factory style rod, maybe move the adjustment back a bit, perhaps significantly for a test. Don't make any WOT attempts, just go for a ride and see if the slow speed shift points change, by doing my adjustments, my 1-2 and 2-3 shift points changed significantly, I can now drive down my 20mph street in 2nd (barely touching the throttle) without the trans shifting to 3 till about 30
EDIT: If the above works, you then need to find the balance between part throttle position while maintaining the ability for the carb to be fill throttle with the kickdown lever at full throttle. You may need to adjust the attachment point somewhere to get a compatible lever ratio.
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There is a very narrow "sweet spot" for the kick down to operate. You might try shortening up the linkage a few turns at a time, to find it.
moes
Well-Known Member
so my take on that article is, it says the lever should be touching the lever in the transmission at idle, with no slack. So when you press on the gas peddle line pressure increase immediately
I will give it a try on Tuesday or Wednesday and report back.
I will hook the pressure gauge up so it reads throttle pressure.
Maybe we'll get this figured out !
I will hook the pressure gauge up so it reads throttle pressure.
Maybe we'll get this figured out !
moes
Well-Known Member
Most of the time these cars get changes, a new carb, different intakes, small block to big bock motors, etc. That all changes the 1:1 ratio for the kick down on the transmission. This is when the problems start. Unless you have an original car with all the original factory kick down linkage that came on the car, you will never have the correct 1:1 ratio that is needed. Then you have to make adjustments to correct it.
Last edited:
So my quest to understand this led me to an incorrect assumption:
--The ratio was 1:1 where closed throttle meant kickdown lever on the trans fully forward and WOT meant kickdown lever fully rearward.
This turned out not to work for me, I actually spent a bunch of time measuring everything out and made a plate that created that 1:1 ratio. It worked terribly, it turns out that a portion of the initial travel on the trans side lever apparently does nothing (or doesn't appear to do anything). I ended up using an Edelbrock adapter that had an L shape to get a workable ratio for my dual quad fitech/lokar cable kickdown setup. I had less overall travel on the kickdown lever on the trans and it moved the kickdown lever to somewhere around 1/3 of the way through its travel at idle, I then tightened from there to get the part throttle shift points I liked, and the rest seemed to just work itself out. As has been said already, once you change the factory parts for aftermarket, there seems to be no absolutely correct combination of parts, you have to fiddle with it to get it to work like you want.
The on road pressure test was good, i posted results a little earlier in this chain.
moes
Well-Known Member
mopar made different length kick down levers, unless you use the correct lever that is needed for your combination in your car, you will not get the correct 1:1 ratio that is needed. Most guys that I’ve seen that are having problems with partial and wide open kick down have a longer kick down lever that is used, and the pressure does not increase until the throttle is 1/2 or1 inch or so down, which throws that ratio off. That means you do not have a pressure increase as so as you push the throttle. On the other hand, if your kick down lever is too short, you are going to have problems too. You can play a little with the kick down to adjust the 1-2 and 2-3 shift points to your liking
icetech
Well-Known Member
BUT... if he adjusted it to the point that it was full pull on the lever with the throttle at full shouldn't it still downshift when at full throttle? even if it had the wrong levers/linkage
moes
Well-Known Member
the key is that you need to have a pressure increase as soon as you hit the throttle. If you have it adjusted by having the lever open at full throttle, that does not mean you have it adjusted for a pressure increase as soon as you hit the throttle
icetech
Well-Known Member
k, i was thinking that downshift would be more dependent on how far it was pulled back, not where it started. This is why i ask questions
moes
Well-Known Member
you need that pressure increase throughout the full lever movement. If you just go by just having the lever full movement, you might only have 1/2 or 3/4 pressure, you need full pressure to get the kick down to work properly. That's why I said you need an increase in pressure as soon as you hit the throttle and as the lever moves the pressure increases over the full swing of the leverk, i was thinking that downshift would be more dependent on how far it was pulled back, not where it started. This is why i ask questions
dvw
Well-Known Member
Putting the cart before the horse. Adjustment doesn't mean a thing if the throttle pressure doesn't increase with lever movement. If the pressure goes over 100psi with the lever back? Then it's most likely an adjustment issue. If the pressure is low? The valve could be stuck, valve installed incorrectly, valve body cracked, weld on the throttle shaft broken. Early soft shifts indicate low throttle pressure.
Doug
Doug
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