The “push” occurs when a car has been sitting, which a lot of these cars are not being driven daily. The cranking will lower the battery charge and the newer high amperage alternators will deliver higher current than the wiring was designed to handle. Couple that with the deterioration of the bulkhead connection and things can get hot.
I get that, but this car is driven consistently. And I've tried charging the battery overnight to make sure the battery was at full charge. The ammeter still read high after it was started. Engine side wiring harnesses and new, the female bulk head connectors have been cleaned and the bulkhead connection was reassembled with electrical grease.
That’s not a push by the alt, but battery sucking in the previous load lost. Amperes never are pushed in
The ABSOLUTE BEST THING YOU SHOULD DO is say NOTHING AND DO NOTHING as all you do is express your total lack of knowledge of anything related to vehicle electrical systems........babble, babble .....don't think out loud.....what is an "instant stage reading gauge"......something you invented or just don't know the correct name?......."the wiring could be getting in troubles depending on which side of the gauges shows reading depending on how you wired it"....what does this mean??........what's a temporal instant short"?????.....another invented phrase......don't think out loud about anything........again, show us your calculations and references that support your comments....if you're able......
Geez. Little bit harsh don’t you think?
I'm far from an electrical engineer, but I've owned seven GTXs, starting with a daily driver in the 70s, and Valiant slant sixes before that. The stock systems always worked fine in the old days, but many posts here accurately describe issues when running these cars decades after they were built. The bulkhead connectors have always been an issue, and preventive maintenance keeping them clean is time well spent.
So true!
No... not the. Least bit harsh.....5his guy's fundamental lack knowledge of electrical systems is pathetic......and what's even more pathetic are the people that believe in what he professes as correct. Tell us exactly what you've learned and exactly what are his credentials other than to copy the work of others. The person that deserves maximum credit and detailed explanations of how the Mopar electrical system operates is: 72RoadrunnerGTX. His presentations are note worthy, accurate, and professionally done. If you have no knowledge of electrical systems, specially Mopar electrical systems believe in what 72RoadrunnerGTX presents NOT the hearsay, guesstimates, copied and totally inaccurate information presented by nacho. And that is definitely my opinion......
Once upon a time I used to frequent other mopar sites such as moparts and dodgecharger.com.
Because this is the first time I opened this thread. If there's an issue, hit the report button to alert us. We can't read every post in every thread. I am no electrical expert so I shouldn't make judgements as to who's information is correct and neither should you. We already have 2 members disagreeing here. We don't need another.
