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8 3/4 axle end play adjustment Help!

Matthon, I did not see the make or year of your car. From your photo is your car a 1963 Plymouth Fury Station Wagon. If so I may be able to provide some information on how I corrected the same problem on my '63 Fury.
 
And did you repack the axle bearings with grease?
 
Bird 426 said:
And did you repack the axle bearings with grease?
Click to expand...
Not this time.
The rearend had everything done, soup to nuts, bearings, seals, brakes, 4:10, springs, and I drove it last year in the 2 door hardtop.

I swapped the center section, put new wagon springs on it, and slid it under the wagon.
Everything looked as good as new, seals, bearings/races, axles, studs, etc. Made sure the seals were in all the way.
Couldn't pack the bearings anymore.

Now that it's back in the wagon, going to try my hand at replacing the pinion seal, never done one before.

Got a new seal from Dr. Diff as well as the sleeve in case the yoke is worn, plus another yoke if needed.

Putting a large pipe wrench on the yoke and hoping I can crack this nut loose.
 
So the 15x8 4.25 bs with the L-60 MT just fits, but they're dry rotted.

Plan was to get 275/60s, but when I tried the 15x8 4.5 bs 275/60s off my Dart the space between the tire and the quarter/lip are the exact same.

The 275/60 is more rounded, and basically the equivalent of the MT, although the MT squared off.

Scratching my head as to why the 275/60 with the larger bs fits the same?

May have to go with a smaller tire with the 4.25 bs.

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20240421_124403.jpg


20240421_124415_001.jpg
 
I marked the yoke, pinion, and nut with a paint pen.
I figure there's a margin of error as I'm doing this under the car, it's dirty, and I cleaned up the yoke and nut, but I smacked the nut with a chisel before cleaning it.

Large pipe wrench on the yoke, it came off fairly easy with my weak 90psi gun.

Putting it back together, pipe wrench again, yoke rock steady, can't get it back to my so called mark.
Even turned up the psi to 100+, worked it back and forth a few times, breaker bar with jack handle on it, not much room for it though. Even tried a jack under the breaker bar, but didn't push that very far.

I don't feel any play, back and forth, up and down.
New seal was driven home all the way.

Any input is appreciated.

20240421_175312.jpg
 
Did you lube up the threads? Torque spec is 240 foot pounds, or more correctly pounds feet.
 
Engine oil would work. I torqued mine to 150, and then added some with my 1" drive ratchet. In your case since all the parts are the same, tightening up to the same marks should work, but a little oil would make it easier.
 
R/T Boy 67 said:
Engine oil would work. I torqued mine to 150, and then added some with my 1" drive ratchet. In your case since all the parts are the same, tightening up to the same marks should work, but a little oil would make it easier.
Click to expand...
Adding lubricant changes the torque value. I guess not having a torque wrench that goes high enough. they say to reduce the torque by 25% when using Lubricant during torque.
https://www.antiseize.com/PDFs/torque_specifications.pdf
 
Attempted again today, bent my breaker bar and then the socket side made a pop sound. It spread apart exposing what I assume is the broken pin.

I don't foresee me getting this thing any tighter.

Fluid was flowing out the original seal, so I saw it as a needed repair.
Bummer.
 
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Hello i m bumping this thread instead of creating a new thread because my question is almost the same as the OP

I lost my locking pawl when changing my third member if i dont have a locking pawl to secure the end play what are the consequences? i m guessing the retainer will move and then end up locking the bearing?
 
You need that lock. You could get crafty and make one or Dr Diff and Mancini have them available.
 
ckessel said:
You need that lock. You could get crafty and make one or Dr Diff and Mancini have them available.
Click to expand...
I m sure i do but i m curious as to what damage it might cause if one doesnt have the pawl in to secure everything
 
The adjuster can back off, bearings get loose. Potential expensive oops.
 
okay that was my assessement.
i started noticing that when i was going in reverse i sometime heard a grinding or crunching sound coming from the back passenger side
I guess my bearing are dead now.
quite mad at myself for not double checking when i had the third member changed by a mechanic
 
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Bust it apart and assess what's messed up. If the bearings are toast, you'll need them along with the inner and outer seals plus the collars that press on after the bearing which helps keep the bearing in place. There is also a foam gasket and a stamped steel gasket on each side. Timken bearings, Set 7, are the ones to use. Yukon Gear, Dr Diff, ricks-mopars on eBay are vendors for replacement items. Stay far away from Chinese made bearings. Not sure if KOYO, NSK or FAG made them but the bearing numbers, for the individual pieces, many times are similar from company to company. If you find some of those that are not Chinesium, you should be good to go. There is a thread here that lays out the removal and adjustment procedures.
Chrysler 8 3/4 Axle bearing and Seal R&R...A How To
 
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