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Ballpark estimate for the cost to do a 5.7 Hemi swap in a '70 Charger

How much would it cost to rebuild and upgrade that 383?
The 383 of mine has been rebuilt. I built it in 2020 but in the 4 years since I've had it running, I have less than 300 miles on it.
I do have a 440 crank that I could use, that would increase the stroke and get me to around 432 cubes. I like the idea of having an overdrive transmission though and with a big block, the options are limited.
 
If you do, do a Gen 3 hemi swap
2009 to current Eagle heads, much better heads on the second gen of the 3rd gen.
Hemis, better ports, & bigger valve sizes & more compression & flow 330cfm stock,
vs the earlier 2008 & prior versions 260cfm
the early 5.7's can't put much camshaft in them, tight valve clearances
not worth it
way more valve to piston clearances in the 2009 later
the 2nd gen./of the 3rd gen. Hemi's 2009- current/with the Eagle heads


If you do a 440 3.75" or bigger stroke in the 383
I'd highly suggest buy it in a kit form save the hassles,
get it from either 440source in stock (hard to beat them in price) USA made/strokers
decent quality good rods, pins & pistons, cranks
or our member @PROSTOCKTOM has some nice looking kits too

I've had several 383/479cid 4.15" stroke & 4.290" bore (0.040" over)
from 590hp to 720hp, no failures on any of them
I like the smaller/lighter (50#s)/narrower, more hood clearance
package of the B-block/low-deck

(albeit a 400 block is a bit better, has thicker main webbing
& a lil' bigger (0.070") 4.34" std bore (bigger helps with cylinder head flow)
but if you're not spinning it to 7k all the time then the 383 block should do fine,
they are weaker in the main webbing
)

The 1st one I built with a 383 block was a 431.6+cid @ 0.030" over,
a 4.28" bore with a 440, & a 3.75" crank
it's lots of machine work (before all these co.'s offered kits)
needed to turned down to 7.125" on the counter weights,
about an 1/8" appr. 0.120" taken off
& reground to the b-engine 2.625" sized mains journals (440 main is 2.75")
the rods ends/journals are the same as a 440 size 2.375"
I used Eagle rods, H beam, decent priced & strong, with the rod bolt/cap style
Custom pistons are expensive, & timely waits for them too...

many of the 'stroker kits' out there
come with a BB Chevy sized 2.2" big end rods/rod journals, lots of rods
(could have side clearance issues, because the rod is narrower)
& but there's lots of piston & pin selections that way too
albeit I didn't ever go that way
383 is the same std. bore size as a 427 (3.75" stoke)
or 454 (4" stroke) MkIV BBC
(or a std bore of a 426 Hemi, if using a flattop piston)

compression height;
top of piston to centerline of the rod/piston pin location
is what is needed to know, when ordering customs
& valve sizes, depth of reliefs (how much gross valve lift),
0.100" clearance for Intake & 0.120" for exhaust
the piston chases the exhaust valve up, so it takes a tad more clearance,
unless it's/camshaft is really advanced
if you're not going over 0.520" gvl (gross vale lift, rocker ratio x cam lift),
& use a 0.039" compressed head gasket
you don't have to worry much
but a camshaft with 0.520" gvl the stock iron heads will need
the top of the valve guides cut down,
so not to interfere with the spring retainers at full lift

anyway you get the gest...
 
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Being the junkyard dog that I am at heart, I'd be tempted to use the turned down crank that I have and just buy pistons for it.
Who knows though. This is all very fluid, very flexible. I've made no decisions yet, I've bought no parts. The crank was FREE to me but it got my wheels spinning about what possibilities there are.
 
Being the junkyard dog that I am at heart, I'd be tempted to use the turned down crank that I have and just buy pistons for it.
Who knows though. This is all very fluid, very flexible. I've made no decisions yet, I've bought no parts. The crank was FREE to me but it got my wheels spinning about what possibilities there are.

Unless you can find a shelf ready piston the cheapest sets of custom pistons I can get are all around $1600 and up, and most are over $2000 nowadays.

A sweet deal of a crankshaft or a set of rods can end up costing way more in the end. Then should you need a replacement piston later you have to buy 4 pieces minimum.

This is why I tell all of my potential customers that I can't stress enough to build combinations that allow for easy replacement parts should you need them down the road.

Tom
 
How do you arrive at $1600 for a set of pistons?
I have the 440 rods. I have the crank. This is a combination that has been done many times before.
If true, this is a really weird thing.
 
How do you arrive at $1600 for a set of pistons?
I have the 440 rods. I have the crank. This is a combination that has been done many times before.
If true, this is a really weird thing.

I just read port #124 and it wan't specific as to what the crank was. I went back and read some other post to see what you had.

You can by shelf made ICON pistons for that combination in either dish or dome configuration, but no flat tops available in the 383" stroker series.

Tom
 
Ideally, I'd want a dished since it would be a longer stroke build. I'd rather have it at 9 to 1 than 10 to 1 and maybe need to run premium fuel (or higher) all the time. I would only do this if I could do it at a reasonable cost. If it were really a matter of $1600 for pistons, I'd dial it back and build a 360/408 roller cam small block so I could easily use a factory overdrive automatic with no cutting of the transmission or any adapters.
 
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