Welding observations that I have made....

Dave P said:

Topic drift....anybody know who did the music on this ????

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Speaking of music, all the Alum pictured is my design and my welding with a Syncrowave 500. Been welding 5+decades and 3G Tig Cert as most everything I do is on a bench, SS 3/8"x 5'x20'. Advantage of alum and same for SS is it reflects a lot of light helping with visibility when using Tig.

j-c-c-62 said:

I getting my first 2 MRI's in two days, how much ahead of time is needed?

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On one of my excursions to get scanned, I mentioned to them about the welding/grinding. The tech took me over and did a quick X-Ray to look for issues. None found so on to the MRI on the same visit.
Just to play it safe, call them tomorrow and give them a heads up.

And as many of you have seen in the news lately, LEAVE YOUR BLING OFF WHEN IN THE SCAN ROOM!

Hopefully they focused on all the safety hazards and have fume extractors.
I enjoyed stick welding. Really satisfying when the flux peels off cleanly in a big chunk.

Stick welding is great for heavier materials and especially outside where shielding gas can get blown away. MIG is very common these days and most car guys are capable. TIG is very useful and is prevalent in the race car world. I also use TIiG for sheet metal as the heat is more even and I find it distorts less, but mainly use it on cages, stainless and aluminum. Here’s a TIG welded 4” stainless exhaust and TIG welded chromoly floor bars I did in a Buick. Keep going with honing your welding skills, you’re off to a good start.

I had a 500A Syncrowave for Tig and a 625A Miller mig, and I loved my little 120V Hobart 140 for Migging nonstructural sheet metal quickly.
It was very handy.

After welding school, I bought a Miller Dynasty 280 DX Tig runner setup. pricy (I think around $9K) but nice with the wireless foot control and water cooled.
Seems it was discontinued and replaced with the Dynasty 300 DX at an even higher price point around $15K (ouch).
I use the Miller for AC and DC Tig and stick welding.
My old 1990's Hobart handler 110 MIG machine still works, but I need to replace the liner / gun.
Bought a Tweeco Fabricator 181i multi-process machine when they were discontinuing them, I think is was around $500. (about what the Miller wireless foot controller costs.)
It is a 220 volt machine and does MIG weld fine. The DC Lift Tig is really crude compared to the expensive Miller. Unfair comparison, but not that good for TIG. Might be better if I change out the cheap foot controller. I haven't stick welded with the Tweeco, but seems it would work fine.
Also, have a Oxy/Acetylene welder & touch.
I have a Hobart Air Force 500 Plasma-Cutter 110/220 Volt, but only 12 Amps with 110 Volt input and claimed 24 Amps with 220 Volts? Not really impressed with it, but works on thinner material. In welding school used the HyperTherm 65Amp plasma cutter which is much better. Again a much more expensive machine with alot more power.
Anyone try the off-name import plasma cutters? Are they any good and can you get replacement parts for them?

451Mopar said:

Anyone try the off-name import plasma cutters? Are they any good and can you get replacement parts for them?

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I just bought an Arcaptain 50 for only a $169!! cuts up to a 1/2" and love it, the only problem is when I use it in the 240V mode, I only have one outlet, which is normally no problem, either welder or air compressor plugged in, so I had to get a splitter cord.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5N7K2DJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Jeff Peterson said:

I just bought an Arcaptain 50 for only a $169!! cuts up to a 1/2" and love it, the only problem is when I use it in the 240V mode, I only have one outlet, which is normally no problem, either welder or air compressor plugged in, so I had to get a splitter cord.

View attachment 1897900
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5N7K2DJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

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Thanks! I seen those on Amazon and was not sure if they were any good, but they are 10x cheaper than the big name cutters.
I wired a 125 Amp Sub-Panel in my garage, but just have a 60 Amp main breaker because it is wired with 4 AWG wire. I currently have two 50-Amp 220 Volt NIMA 14-50 Plugs (Welders or Plasma cutter, No electric cars to charge yet), two 220 volt 20-Amp plugs (air compressor for one and an extra), and a few 110 Volt outlets connected to the sub panel for the garage.