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Gear Vendors

Thanks for that. The GV is on my future to do list for the wagon. Just changing from the 25" tall 14's to the 28" tall 15's dropped me close to 300 or so rpm running 3.23's. At the SEMA show last year, Rick? from GV said to use the long unit, like you did, for my wagon. Said there are two areas to be thumped some but otherwise straight forward.
 
I have a 727 Shortie with the GV unit attached on my 67 Charger. Using the shortie keeps the GV unit in the fat area of the tunnel, no dimpling required... However, the 3 tail hosing stiffening ribs (top and two sides) on the shortie are very wide where the housing passes through the crossmember, and need to be trimmed back a tad for proper clearances. Shortening of the drive shaft is also less severe with the shortie, obviously.

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Ya, that was before I had the tach repaired. It drops about 720 RPM. On the GVOD site you can see what the OD gear ratio equivalent is for the gears you are running. I have an 8 3/4 3.55 SG, so OD is like running 2.77s. Dodge 3-Speed Auto - Gearvendors
Mind me asking what torque converter you're running? Just wondering about excessive slippage with the '2.77s', thanks.
 
Mind me asking what torque converter you're running? Just wondering about excessive slippage with the '2.77s', thanks.
Unfortunately I don't know the TC as it was already together when I get the car. It is pretty stock though.
 
so, the GV unit is temporarily installed. I did have to dent the tunnel and hog out the tranny mount holes alot. I did discover that the shifter plate mounting bosses are not drilled deep enough to use the stock type screws. talked to Rick at GV and he sent me some that were a 1/4 shorter and that fixed it. I will share some pictures this evening
 
Unfortunately I don't know the TC as it was already together when I get the car. It is pretty stock though.
That's good info, I already have two converters I can use, one 2500 rpm the other a 'tight' 3000 rpm. Probably shouldn't plan on gearing down to 2.77 on the road. Likely run a 3.91 or 4.10 so a GV shouldn't be a problem with either. Thanks!
 
You do not want a loose converter in a car with overdrive.
I had a 3000 stall converter in my car with a 3.91 and a GV. In overdrive, throttle response was similar to a boat on the water. RPMs increased but the car barely responded. It sucked. At steady speeds on flat ground it was okay but if you encountered any hills or wanted to casually pass someone, the throttle response was as precise feeling as a spoon in a bowl of oatmeal.
 
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Mind me asking what torque converter you're running? Just wondering about excessive slippage with the '2.77s', thanks.
I’m running 3.23’s with 14 wheels, with my gear vendors. Turns about 2100 rpm at 60 mph. Stock torque converter, and it seems to be working well. Easy cruising at 75 mph. Have driven it about 1000 miles so far.
 
A Gear Vendors with a 3.23 ??
That is a pretty tall final drive. 2.51??
That does allow for comfortable cruising. I’m at 2.50 final with a 3.91 and the fifth gear in the Tremec.

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Ok the mopar gods smiled upon me today! Installed the TTI Exhaust System and thank goodness that the h pipe cleared the GV!!! By the way the TTI exhaust is awesome. Only took a small amount of fiddling with to make it work and look fantastic.

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You have a shiny axle.
I was NOT about to tell you that you have a nice rear end.
 
So, it fits with the H pipe setup. I'll keep that in mind for down the road.
 
Ok the mopar gods smiled upon me today! Installed the TTI Exhaust System and thank goodness that the h pipe cleared the GV!!! By the way the TTI exhaust is awesome. Only took a small amount of fiddling with to make it work and look fantastic.

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With my Accurate exhaust, both pipes plus the H-pipe hit.
 
Nice. I'll keep that in mind for when I replace the system in the future. Cuts down on some of the work. I have their 3" X system on my 65 with the GV. The GV wasn't on there before but is now. Had to do some moving, fabbing etc to clear. I was able to reuse the majority of the system so far.
 
So here’s a couple of things that I’ve learned! 1. If you get a GV Kit check the depth of the shifter mounting holes! Mine was a 1/4 inch to shallow for the factory counter sunk screws. Rick at GV helped me out and had some shorter ones sent to. 2.took the drive shaft to the shop to get shortened. And found out that I would have to get a new drive shaft because GV sends you a spicer 1350 sized slip yoke so you have to get a compatible weld in yoke and the factory diameter of the drive shaft will not accept the weld in yoke for the 1350 size slip yoke. With that being said you will have to a different weld in yoke for the rear of the drive shaft because it is tapered down. So now I will have a special u joint that goes from the 1350 size down to the factory size. (1720 I think ).3 If you are planning to use Dakota digital gauges you will have to purchase a 6 inch cable to add to the speedometer cable because the 2 speed sensors don’t play well with each other when you stack them together as per Dave at GV.Also on that same note I will have to contact them to find out if I can get a shorter length of the speedometer cable that they supply with the kit. It’s to long with the extension cable attached to the Dakota digital speed sensor! And I found out that Gorrlla double sided tape works really well to run the wire down from the shifter handle to the shifter boot

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