Headlight pod not locking

I went to leave for a car show this morning and the battery was completely dead. When I tested for a draw I heard the headlight relays clicking. It turns out when I shut off the car on Monday night after a cruise the right headlight pod did not rotate closed. Once I got enough charge in the battery I turned the lights on and off and it closed and no more draw... BUT... it does not lock securely. The left side pod is solid. The right side will wiggle about 1/2 inch, just enough to open the limit switch and make the relay start clicking again. Is there an adjustment to get the pod to lock securely in the closed position?

No, not really.
Despite being a cool feature the rotating headlight design was not very good.
Mine are controlled manually by a 3 position switch under the hood wired right to each motor.

I'm an electrical controls engineer but amazingly enough this has never been a priority for me.
Maybe just put a kill switch on the power from the kick panel? Unfortunately you would need to remember to use it.
Sorry but it's a design limitation.

Think you have a motor problem. My experiences with the motors is that in the end of the housing where the shaft exits the motor housing, there is a circular bushing in a groove in the casting that seems to be of a hard plastic material ? Still don't know how they got it into the casting groove... That bushing appears to have shrunk with age and binds up the shaft where it exits the motor. The motors armature actually turns quite fast, but the planetary gear reduction in the end housing reduces motor RPM's to less than 1 RPM. The end shaft I refer to only turns 180 degrees to open or close the buckets. In addition to supporting the end shaft, think it was meant to act as a seal to keep moisture out of the motors. The whole design with relays and limit switches can be quite reliable but... it depends on getting a full 180 degree rotation of the buckets so that the adjuster screw on the bucket mechanically operates the limit switches properly.
On that adjuster screw, a dissimilar metal condition typically causes a corrosion issue that likely has that slotted steel adjusting screw frozen in the bucket casting making it immovable, so a good long soaking of the screw with penetrating oil is needed to get it loose. Good idea to coat that screw with anti-seize when I replaced it after getting it freed up and cleaned up. This adjuster screw physically contacts both of limit switches.
With motors apart, I tried to use some emery cloth to try to shave a few thousandths off the ID of the bushing. That proved difficult and un-sucessful, so with the shaft in a lathe, I used emery cloth to just take off a bit of metal off the OD of the shaft where it passes thru the bushing, checking the fit periodically in the process so it rotated freely in that bushing without any binding. Little bit of lubricant also helps. things.
If operating the motor as a test on the bench, it must be fully back together with both ends of housing held together tightly as the armature of the motor depends on both ends of the housing to properly align and turn freely. I used a battery charger to operate the motors on the bench as they do draw a fair amount of current. In the car there is a circuit breaker located in the drivers side kick panel for the headlight motors and relays. The motors also have an internal thermal type protector that ultimately protects the motor windings. With motor not mechanically connected to the bucket, you also need to check that the bucket rotates freely and verify that your limit switches are electrically operating as intended.

The way I do it, loosen 1 or two of the manual clamp bolts, grab the motor from in behind and spin it to locked in and tighten the bolts.
Works like a charm as intended

Thanks for your responses guys. Between Don's post and the last two I was out in the garage. I pulled the lower pan and center grill. I found the adjusting screws you refer to and saw that it was the difference between how the left side and right side were locking, or stopping when closed. As mentioned, I used lots of liquid wrench and worked them out slowly. I cleaned the right side up on the wire wheel and reinstalled it. The right side is adjusted about two threads further than the left to have them both just seating with no slack. After reading RemCharger's post, clocking the motor may have solved that problem. The buckets are slightly misaligned with the center grill but I am talking maybe an eighth inch.

So either you resolved a long time out of adjustment issue with the set screw, or you took front end apart for shits and giggles. Either way glad it worked.

You are right. I hope I resolved the issue that caused the limit switch to drain the battery. At least the pods are adjusted correctly now. I have had the front end apart several times already. What's one more?