My fuel gauge with the sending unit now is showing ¼ when the tank is close to full. It looks like the sending unit is in upside down, but it will only go in one way. Should the wire stud be on the driver side or the passenger side? Or maybe one of you guys have a part # I can compare it too.
Fuel tank sending unit.
- Thread starter chrger1967
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Is it a factory original sending unit or an aftermarket one? Typically, aftermarket re pop’s are junk and will read wrong. I have heard that Vans are now doing an accurate repop, but have not tried them myself.
bcOH67
Well-Known Member
Mine reads the exact same thing. Original rebuilt gauge and a newer sender. I’ll be looking in to the Vans sender too haha.
What really sucks is that the sending unit works when I test it outside the tank, it will bring the gauge up to 3/4. It seems like its upside down when its installed, but it only goes in one way.
I've heard that you can bend the float down, as a possible improvement.
Aftermarket sending units, usually are "cheap China ****".
You may find a place that sells better China ****, but who's got the time to "F" with that .
Worse (for me ) was the thin-*** locking rings, that they send with them. At least "Detroit Muscle" can help with that.
Aftermarket sending units, usually are "cheap China ****".
You may find a place that sells better China ****, but who's got the time to "F" with that .
Worse (for me ) was the thin-*** locking rings, that they send with them. At least "Detroit Muscle" can help with that.
I usually have some NOS rings if needed. The repop are to thin.
I tried to bend the one that was in the car. It does test ok outside the tank, if I hold it the opposite way it belongs in the tank, then the gauge will go to 3/4. I'm thinking it's just the wrong sending unit the guy before me put in.
bcOH67
Well-Known Member
People on here have said it’s something to do with the signal from the sender. Linear vs nonlinear. Mine tests fine too, it’s just something about how they talk together.
TN Mopar
Well-Known Member
I got tired of playing this game
I went with an EFI fuel tank from Tanks inc
built an entire new fuel delivery system with an in-tank fuel pump and the floatless fuel sending unit
It all works great. The electric pump is next to quiet (yes I can hear it if I listen for it)
I have 1/2 inch lines feeding a Thumper billet Carb with 3/8 fuel return
no vapor lock issues and plenty of room to put bigger engines in too
I went with an EFI fuel tank from Tanks inc
built an entire new fuel delivery system with an in-tank fuel pump and the floatless fuel sending unit
It all works great. The electric pump is next to quiet (yes I can hear it if I listen for it)
I have 1/2 inch lines feeding a Thumper billet Carb with 3/8 fuel return
no vapor lock issues and plenty of room to put bigger engines in too
Dennis Weden
Well-Known Member
I have a guy that will take your tank sending unit and gauge and make them work. Now my question is will my car run without gauge in dash?
TN Mopar
Well-Known Member
The problem is that the voltage limiter is inside of the fuel gauge
unless you have upgraded the voltage limiter to an external one
None of your gauges will work
Roadhog51
Active Member
I just went through this fiasco. My Fuel sender, tank and fuel gauge were all replaced when the car was restored. The FG would read just under 1/2 tank when full. I grounded the sender, turned on the key and it the needle would quickly go to full, and no I didn't leave it on long enough to burn up the gauge. I purchased another F sender and tested it; it had all the correct ohm readings as per the FSM. I installed it and it still only reads 1/2 when its full. Now I am told the aftermarket gauges are not compatible with the aftermarket sender, as they operate under a different ohms!!! WTF why would you make something that doesn't work???
PS My aftermarket temp gauge does the same, the needle comes just off or cold when the rad temp is 190. It also goes to HOT when you ground the sender wire. I replaced the sender and I replaced the voltage limiter with a new Electronic unit, but it didn't help!
PS My aftermarket temp gauge does the same, the needle comes just off or cold when the rad temp is 190. It also goes to HOT when you ground the sender wire. I replaced the sender and I replaced the voltage limiter with a new Electronic unit, but it didn't help!
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It really is a pain in the ***. If I hold my sending unit the opposite way then it gets installed and ground it to test it, it will show 3/4. However, when I put it in the way it should be installed, it shows only 1/4 tank. It feels to me that the pickup is hitting the bottom of the tank, so I tried bending it a little to no avail. Im going to try one from Vans auto, they are half the price of the ones I see on Amazon.
Is there a kit to do that?
https://a.co/d/iuDWO9g Would something like this be good to use? It can be adjusted to 5 volts.
TN Mopar
Well-Known Member
Real Time Engineering sells an aftermarket upgrade
It's the one I used
And I wouldn't use anything else
It's a good upgrade
much safer than a 59 year old winding
read the web page well
you will have to disable the factory limiter
RTE limiter - rte
TN Mopar
Well-Known Member
The one you posted is not really suitable
The biggest reason is the analog limiter actually initially allows more than 5 volts to the guages at start up
Then tapers down. This allows the gauges to respond sooner
(For example the fuel gauge that jumps up to the fuel level as soon as you turn on the key)
For the best results use the RTE limiter IVR3
just make sure you follow the directions
It's not hard, but it is important
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