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LED Headlight conversion what to use

It still looks to me like the RetroBright assemblies are one sealed unit...maybe someone who has them, can check and verify one way or the other.
IMG_3506.jpeg
 
50% higher current demand and shorter service life..
again...change to an LED or HID bulb when you install, and both your current draw and your service life issues are addressed. 35w H4 HID, $35 a pair; H4 LED, anywhere from $20each and up.

I've run the Hellas in my motorcycles for nearly a decade now, with 35w HID lamps, and zero issues - and that's on a motorcycle charging system.
 
A couple of technical points when comparing competitive headlight products...
For the supplied chart the indicated specs for the Holley retro-brights are on the higher side vs actual measurements by about 20%.

Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:
The numbers on that chart mentioned are carefully measured numbers using the same test equipment for all bulb types listed. They are the actual numbers for both sets Retrobrights I own. The stock headlight wiring and related components were barley able to handle the OE sealed beams without significant voltage drop when they were new. 50-years on, there is no reason not to run relays, any bulb type will benefit from minimal voltage drop and reduced current stress for the stock wiring/components.
Retrobright current comparison.jpg
 
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We did measure the Holley LFRB 145s using a precision Keithley/Tektronix DMM6500...
And found @ 12.5 Volts they required just under 2 amps which equates to about 25W the published Holley spec not the 27W the chart indicates. Note that depending upon what brand/model volt/amp meter was used, certain lower cost measuring volt/amp meters have a tolerance of +/- 5%. Note that I do agree using the Mopar OE factory headlight wiring for 15' of 12AWG there is significant voltage loss of up to 2V. And here a closer placed relay system can/will minimize any significant voltage loss. So if the headlght system is using an OE sealed beam or halogen bulb there will be a significant, visible brightness loss, if a Mopar OE wiring system is used. But as I posted previously, in my personal experience for the Holley LEDs retro-brights for brightness output they are less sensitive to voltage changes but more dependent upon current availability. My personal opinion remains the same, the Holley retro-brights are an expensive but quality, easy to install alternative and deliver a significant, improved brightness/dispersion output compared to OE factory sealed beam and other branded LED headlight solutions without having to add relays and make other wiring mods.

Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:
All numbers listed were taken with the same test equipment here at the same time and at 13.5 volts, rounded to a tenth of a volt or so, the tolerances between different test equipment doesn’t play a role in this comparison. OE stock 12AWG headlight wiring? What year/platform is that? Most stock headlight wiring from this time period is 16AWG at best, 18AWG for a-bodies. A full 2+ volt drop is not uncommon through stock headlight wiring and related components while running stock like sealed beams these days.

 
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Note that I do agree using the Mopar OE factory headlight wiring for 15' of 12AWG there is significant voltage loss of up to 2V.
Where is there 12ga wiring in the headlight circuit of any A/B/E body car?

B/E got 16ga at best IIRC. bean counters!
 
Where is there 12ga wiring in the headlight circuit of any A/B/E body car?

B/E got 16ga at best IIRC. bean counters!
do you still make and sell headlight relay kits? I have a Cuda I'm rewiring with new stock harness, would like to correct the front lighting harness issues.
 
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