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Edelbrock AVS2 airhorn 6-32 screws stripping

mopar67440

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Ok...so in tuning my AVS2, each time I remove and replace the airhorn for tuning, another 6-32 screw hole strips. This occurs before the screw is even tight, and I was being extra careful too! I never thought they would strip so easy. I'm beginning to not like these carbs!

My first thought to prevent this is I should have cleaned the screws and blew out the holes, then use anti seize or some other lubricant to protect the aluminum from galling, but that's water over the dam at this point.

I believe my course of repair is follows;
1. Insert stainless wire strands
2. Tap for next size up screw (metric)
3. Drill and tap for heli-coil or thread inserts (Carb walls are very thin)
4. Permatex stripped thread repair
5. JB Weld studs and use 6-23 nuts

Thoughts much appreciated
 
Ok...so in tuning my AVS2, each time I remove and replace the airhorn for tuning, another 6-32 screw hole strips. This occurs before the screw is even tight, and I was being extra careful too! I never thought they would strip so easy. I'm beginning to not like these carbs!

My first thought to prevent this is I should have cleaned the screws and blew out the holes, then use anti seize or some other lubricant to protect the aluminum from galling, but that's water over the dam at this point.

I believe my course of repair is follows;
1. Insert stainless wire strands
2. Tap for next size up screw (metric)
3. Drill and tap for heli-coil or thread inserts (Carb walls are very thin)
4. Permatex stripped thread repair
5. JB Weld studs and use 6-23 nuts

Thoughts much appreciated
Hmmm. This stuff never happened with the Carter/Weber units.
I think they were #8 screws. A #6 is pretty small.
They don't need to be very tight.
 
I barely snugged them down. One of the 2 carbs in particular (dual quads).
First time removing airhorn was 1 screw. Now 3 screws. I question the thread cut on these AVS2's.
Suggestions?
 
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I barely snugged them down. One of the 2 carbs in particular (dual quads).
First time removing airhorn was 1 screw. New 3 screws. I question the thread cut on these AVS2's.
Suggestions?
Unfortunately, No.
Seems like another case where "you can't get anything good anymore..."
 
They are #10-32 on original carters and the early Edelbrocks. Is this carb new to you? No way it is #6 that is the size of throttle blade screws. G
 
I misspoke and assumed they were 6-32s. Edelbrock lists replacement screws as 10-32.
The screws feel ok going in, like they are the correct screw size/threads, but once they bottom out they spin. Each removal the fit gets worse and worse and I'm sure fuel will start spilling out from the gasket when moving.

I'm leaning towards fixed studs and nuts as I still have a few jet changes. The dual 650's deliver too much fuel at factory cruise/power.
They are #10-32 on original carters and the early Edelbrocks. Is this carb new to you? No way it is #6 that is the size of throttle blade screws. G
I will verify size tonight. Definitely not 6-32s. The Edelbrock AVS2 carbs are new to me. Came from the Holley and Walbro power equipment carbs.
 
I would take your screws to a hardware store that has us and metric nuts. Find out what size screws. They may be wrong? Same with checking body holes. Something definitely not right.
 
Is it possible that the screws for whatever reason, we're too short? Maybe enough threads in the bottom?
 
All good suggestions. Tonight I will check screws for metric /AES, thread depth and screw length.
 
I do not think the quality of the alloy used by Edel is as good as the original Carter.

To fix: get some 1.5" long screws with thread the whole length; get nuts to fit. Trial fit. Screw in screws utilising all the thread in the body. Fit a/horn & cut off screw leaving enough thread for the nut. Screw in screws & Loctite. Job done!
 
I measured the screws and they are in fact 10-32 x 13/16 long.
Looks like only 1 or 2 thread into a blind hole and bottom out. The remainder could except longer screws. This gives me some options. I've been extremely carefull to just seat the screws, but yet thread damage still occured.

I did some research thinking the failure could be caused by electrolysis. Aluminum combined with zing chromate plated screws and ethenal/moisture could set the stage for galvanic corrosion? Should the threads be lubicated with a zinc-based ant-seize compound or PTFE to insulate and lubricate?

So my plan is to start by running a tap thru all the holes to clean them out then flush any debree, then try a longer screw. Other options I'm looking at would be retap for next size up 12-24 or an M6, or as Geoof mentioned...stud and nut.

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I restore hemi carbs, and have taken apart a lot of Carter AFBs and AVS carbs. I have only see one stripped thread and a few broken screws on some heavily neglected carbs. So I image a factory defect. I was surprised to watch a video and those screws are put in with a machine at edlebrock, so maybe setting was off that day.

An alternative to the above is a helicoil repair. Done a lot on Alumi manifolds.
 
If a fine thread screw is driven in at high speed, this would explain the galling which leads to thread damage.
 
For this location this is probably the easiest fix... I've used it before, makes a god repair...

LOCTITE - 28654 Form-A-Thread

 
For this location this is probably the easiest fix... I've used it before, makes a god repair...

LOCTITE - 28654 Form-A-Thread


This was one of my original thoughts. Loctite and Permatex both make a thread repair. Read of JB Weld being used also with a release agent applied to the threads.
 
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Something is strange here. I’ve had these screws out hundreds of times. Never seen a stripped hole in one of theses carbs. How does the screw feel going in? Does it bind. You state it wasn’t even tight. We’re all the screws started and partially snugged? Was the lid setting flat? How many are stripped?
Doug
 
I agree...something strange. Felt fine going in, no bind, all screws started and finger snug, cover was aligned, 3 of 8 stripped. Second carb no issues.
I think this carb was a mfg dud.
 
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