Introducing "Project Odyssey" a 1972 "Super Satellite"

Update: Just noticed this vehicle was built in May 1972 when I believe the fuel tank had a change in the vent system if I remember correctly. i know the replacement tank now installed has four vent lines at the front of the tank (but I'm not sure of the exact capacity of the fuel tank).

Update: I have some factory high-performance 340 exhaust manifolds for the 305 build. Now sand-blasted and coated with graphite spray (in place of the high-temp paint).

Update: After re-installing the fuel pickup reusing the old gasket/lock ring I went to fill up at the gas station. A customer starting yelling something and I looked down and found the sender unit was leaking all over. Stopped the pump, washed the area with water, paid the attendant. and pushed the vehicle out of the pump area. Two different driver's filling up behind me were kind enough to help me siphon enough gasoline back out of the tank so i could drive home safely (I let them keep the gas since they had their own gas cans and hoses).

Ordered new gasket and thicker lock ring and installed them, making sure this time to hammer the ring a bit tighter instead of just using the special tool I have (can't get much leverage using the tool alone). I found it impossible to get the lock ring perfectly centered. Still need to fill up and find if things are leak free now.

Update: Still concerned about possibly having wiped a cam lobe during initial break-in. After hearing some advice that a wiped cam lobe can be diagnosed if one finds the pushrod not rotating I decided to find out.

I removed the valve covers and painted a dab of white nail polish on each pushrod and then idled the motor. All of the pushrods are turning, but I believe some are rotating faster than others. This rotation speed difference may be normal, I don't really know for sure. Maybe someone who does know can chime in (see video).

Update: Replaced Pertronix Distributor with "official" Chrysler vacuum advance electronic ignition kit (orange unit). I found the '72 firewall already had the dimples in the firewall to place the transistor unit in the factory location (see photos #1 & #2). And by using the now dis-abled factory emissions distributor spark advance wire that tied into the factory ballast resistor, wiring for the Mopar system was a cinch (it is the brown wire located to the side--see photos #3 thru #6). Have not installed the distributor yet.

Note: In photo #2 one can see the large hole in the firewall to the right of the orange box where the 1972 factory emissions system located an ambient temperature sensor in the cowl.

Dibbons said:

Update: Still concerned about possibly having wiped a cam lobe during initial break-in. After hearing some advice that a wiped cam lobe can be diagnosed if one finds the pushrod not rotating I decided to find out.

I removed the valve covers and painted a dab of white nail polish on each pushrod and then idled the motor. All of the pushrods are turning, but I believe some are rotating faster than others. This rotation speed difference may be normal, I don't really know for sure. Maybe someone who does know can chime in (see video).

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Looks like you have no oil to the top end ??

RemCharger said:

Looks like you have no oil to the top end ??

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I'm glad you mentioned that because I expected oil to shoot out all over the place with the valve covers off. I did use a pre-oil tool before initial start up and it was a little difficult to find the correct camshaft spot to run the oil up to the rocker shafts. However the oil was flowing well when I stopped at the appropriate spot.

The 273 rockers and shafts were rebuilt with bronze bushings at a business in Redding that specialized in such work (Rocker Arms Unlimited).

I will have to look into the matter a little further to make sure valve train is lubricated enough. Thank you for pointing that out.

When cold the mechanical oil pressure gauge reads about 80 psi at a fast idle and when warm drops about 20 psi (still about 40 psi at warm idle).

When the timing was off the mark and the motor did not fire up right away initially after the rebuild, I removed the intake manifold and inspected the bottom of each hydraulic valve lifter to make sure none had been wiped out yet. I then reapplied a bunch of cam lube on the lobes and bottom of the lifters. I wonder if all that sticky stuff could have blocked some oil passages? Not likely, but trying to think this thing through. Before the initial assembly, I also failed to mention I used a brake cylinder hone to clean up the lifter bores just a little.

Thanks to RemCharger comment in post #146, I turned the rocker arm shafts over 180 degrees and now we have oil emitting from the hole on top of the rocker arms which is responsible for oiling the valve stem tips.

Thread I posted on FABO to address the issue:

Do We Have a Top End Oiling Problem Here?