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The lifter valley side of the hemi head is still open and oil from that side goes down the lifter valley. The head is so wide it needs the outer drain backs on the exhaust side or all of the oil in the engine would accumulate in the heads.

It all comes through the lifter valley on both of those blocks

It’s unfortunate when things like this happen for sure. Lots of finger pointing and uncertainty. All we can do is learn and move on.

As discussed in multiple other cam threads, everyone blames the parts but never look for the root cause. Valve spring pressure and rate, coil bind, pushrod length, size, material and wall thickness, bore clearance and oiling among other things all factor into the equation. I’ve yet to experience...

DVW has it correct. Your block was honed with a torque plate. Depending on the gasket used with it, and the blocks cylinder wall and deck thickness, you’ll see quite a bit of bore distortion when they’re bolted on. The bore is perfectly straight once done, but distorts back when the plate is...

Yes, they’re a consumable. Every year at a minimum is typical. We’ve found tips and tricks to extend wear, like bearings and shims underneath, but they’re definitely a wear item.

That gear is the way to go. I’ve run one since 2019. It drives my dry sump which in turn runs my fuel pump.

The big advantage is less weight (depending on brand/style,etc) less complexity, and the ability to turn it a higher rpm without valve float and no concerns about failure of the hydraulic lifter or sticking lifter plungers. The HR lobes are usually less aggressive and require less spring. I...

Yes, solid roller lifters.

I’m not sure how you drive this particular vehicle, but we tend to be rough on things in my world. Have you considered putting solid lifters on the hydraulic roller cam and tight lashing it? If it’ll see some spirited high rpm action, it may be food for thought. I’m sure you’ve discussed it all...

Once you go roller, you’ll never go back to a flat tappet. They have their place in low buck builds and restoration engines and such but in a performance engine, roller cam all the way. Sounds like you’re in good hands with this one.

There’s lots of twin turbo Mopars running the streets these days.

Not necessarily so. It would be wise to sonic check the block for sure. Especially after seeing the train wreck balance job on what appeared to be a nice crank. I’m guessing someone cheaped out and tried to use stock rods and some really heavy pistons. The Mallory metal in the crank and the...

Interesting thread. It seems you have several responses outlining the plug information and I would agree with starting with an NGK 5 heat range would get you in the ballpark. I do have a question regarding the logic behind using stock manifolds on on a performance head. I would be curious as to...

I’m working on a 400 using 6.76 rods and ICON 440 stroker pistons.

Mill it. Going.020 is nothing in the grand scheme of things. You can order head gaskets in whatever thickness you need if your compression is already where you want it.

yeah, I didn’t do the math, just saw the .060 and went from there...

It would technically be .120 over. The terms are in reference to bore diameter, not radius so .030 over is .015 removed from each side, .060 over is .030 removed from each side, not that circles have sides but that’s common terminology.

It’s an LS. Bolt the head back on and run it.

I’ve run a similar cam in a 572 hemi. Yours should be a good match to the gear and compression. As DVW says, it’s ramp rate that can be an issue. If the ramp rate is slow enough, you won’t need a ton of spring pressure and it won’t kill a needle bearing roller lifter. I ran Comp 892-16 lifters...