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It is not the distributor that gets damaged. The coil gets too hot and cooks because the Ballast resistor is not there to reduce voltage/current flow to it. You would most likely need to replace your ignition system to match up things. Disregard what I sent you about the simple circuit!! I...

I'm guessing the engineers didn't take into consideration our 50 year old technology. I seem to recall reading about guys using alternator output power (dirty power) instead of clean battery positive terminal power then having occasional issues. The down side to using the battery power is that...

Actually. you were more correct with your first understanding of blue and brown wires. The brown wire (145BR) comes from ignition switch in "START" position to feed full battery power to the coil. When you release the "Start" function then power comes to the ballast resistor via the blue...

One more time.... Unless some has a better idea we are believing the original speaker was 8 OHMs. To give your car one speaker in dash and two speakers on the rear deck and load the radio output with 8 ohm impedance; you will need to do this. First wire the rear speakers together in parallel...

Well that appears to be a totally original thumb wheel MOPAR unit so based on what "Some Car Guy" said I'd guess 8 OHMs is your target and the last configuration I told you about should be correct. Again, I'd hope more guys would offer even more positive input. Good luck with the outcome.

I don't think the output impedance is printed on the radio (maybe on accompanying documentation) and know of no way to test for it. Exactly what radio are you getting? Don't know that we can help much even with that info but might luck out. At the very least you will know something and for...

No your drawing will not give you what you are looking for. Did you ever determine the original speaker impedance value. Some Gar Guy sounded pretty positive about the single front speaker setup being 8 Ohms. Using that rating you could wire two rear deck 8 Ohm speakers in parallel...

Here is what the '74 Service Manual says. REMOVAL: (1) Remove screws attaching lift channel to glass (2) Remove Up-Stop Brackets (3) Remove belt mounted glass stabilizer brackets (4) Raise door glass assembly out of door

It is actually more of a semi-gloss. Satin is a bit more toward the mat finish. That is why I'd call it semi-gloss When I changed colors from gold to black I ended up spraying a cover coat of Dupli-Color Vinyl & Fabric Specialty Coating (mat black) followed by a light coat of the gloss. Used...

If you didn't want front to back fader capability and could verify the original radio ran on 4 ohm speakers; you could run a single 8 ohm up front and dual 4 ohm speakers on the rear deck. Wire the rear speakers in series then connect the front speaker in parallel across the rear connections...

OHMs is a unit of measure for impedance like amps is for current. When wiring speakers like you are wanting do with a radio designed as a mono output and probably fairly low power output (watts); I don't know what the OEM radio was designed to use but I'm guessing you may be asking more out of...

Could be because O'Reilly's does not sell straight 90 weight gear oil these days. The 75W-90 should be just fine. Wouldn't take hardly any time to for the oil to warm up to where the 75 weight was a non-player anyway.

As I said earlier, I'm out of sorts for now but just so you all know the idler arm has less then 400 miles on it and is definitely the correct one. Steering has not been right since putting the car back together a couple years ago. I'm trying to develop a plan to fix a problem when I get back...

I can not pin down exactly what is causing the slop in my steering but strongly suspect it may be in the idler arm area. There is at least an inch gap between the idler bushing and top mounting bracket when the steering is all the way to the left. As I turn to the right the busing slides up to...

Looks to me like your fears are well founded. The 2X8 cradle will help for sure but remember to keep the speed down of rough roads. Any weight you remove from the K-Frame area would lessen the likelyhood of further damage. Supporting the cradle all the way to the trailer deck and securing it...

So I think you are wanting to replace the wire connector attaching the red wire to the Amp Meter. If that is correct, I believe that is a 12 gauge wire so select a connector the wire will slide into and the eye fits the stud you will be attaching to. I've seen different eyelet thicknesses so...

It appears to me like the sender you show tests good. I agree with 68-500 about the wire or gauge. Where did you have the sender connected while showing the gauge readings? Might need to closely examine feed from sender to gauge.

First thing you need to determine is where the fault cause is. The sender, The gauge, or possibly even a bad wire. I'd start by removing the wire from the sender (outside of the tank) and connecting that wire direct to chassis ground. If the gauge pegs out full then most likely it and the...

MY Bad!! I KNEW THAT!! Got the ball rolling on sorting out his issue. I agree the continuity to ground is likely coming through light bulbs

On an original amp meter the red wire goes to the alternator output and the black wire to the battery positive output. That is how the system determines battery charge/discharge condition which is what the meter is supposed to do. The volt meter will have one connection to the battery and one...