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The only temperature gauge senders I found that work correctly are sold by Year One. As posted before there is a gauge one and a light type.

That is interesting info in your post. I have always tried to get the best marking possible and then bang it in the car and see if it is noisy or not. Most diff gear sets make a slight whine at some point - it is down to what speed it happens at and can you live with it. I had come to the...

I don't worry about all the measuring set-ups. I just start with a known shim thickness bang it together and do a marking. Adjust to suit what the marking shows me is needed.

From memory my one was 28 thousands.

I would take them for a drive in the car first and if they seem genuine then let them behind the wheel. Never by themselves or if they drive badly.

Yes it should be OK if you do them one at a time.

Yeah get it out they can cause overheating issues on some engines.

It sounds like he has the stock bolts but it is something to check.

I would also like to hear about any fixes/thoughts. Exactly the same thing has happened to a friends 505 engine. The engine has not come apart yet but I will post here if we find anything definite. Start with anything that can load the crank in the direction the wear is - assuming it is only...

In the Melling instructions it warns you check hole in the cap will accept mounting neck of the pump. Check for burrs on the bearing cap. Carefully file down the oil pump until it drops fully in to position. Be careful to keep any metal out of your new engine. I mean only relieve the area of...

Mopar Hunter I am pretty sure it was 3/8 NPT.

I put my fan temp switch in the place indicated in post #9 - works fine.

It looks to me like the adjuster hex needs to go around 1 flat "lower" on the torsion bar.

Yes only use 1.

Thank you gents.

So long as you stay 20 thousands inside the head gasket you will be fine. Pays also to know were the top piston ring comes up to also.

The eyebrow would allow the intake charge (or more of it) to flow out around the valve area near the bore. If the valve is too shrouded it will restrict flow. Be careful not to grind until the head gasket is compromised or you weaken the top of the block.

No the source vacuum and the reading would be the same. The idea of running the PCV off the bottom of the carb is to share as much of the PCV contaminant across as many cylinders as possible.

Run the PCV and brake booster to separate vacuum sources. You don't want any of that contaminant/oily crap in your brake booster. You might need the brakes to work properly at some point.

A Demon is very similar to a Holley and gaskets/parts are interchangeable. It is kind of a copy just so you know. Holley also post tech tips on You Tube.