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That's not a correct 1967 drum, should be smooth with no fins

You can order 11" drum brakes on any b-body. I had a 4 door Belvedere with 11" brakes, sway bar, and 3.23 sure grip 383 2bbl. Drove great

All 66-70 factory front disc brake B and E bodies come with 10x2.5" rear drums. Engine and trans do not matter. Only exception is T/A and AAR have 11x2.5" rears.

No they did not, they had 10x2.5" rears with disc. The only B and E body disc brake car that had 11x2"5" rears in 1970 was TA and AAR

Hose clamp is the winner. You can adjust the height of it and get it in the right spot, the cable comes right out. How do you depress and hold 3 tangs with needle nose pliers?

I bought one from NAPA for a 1973 Dart with manual disc brake. It had the groove and pedal feel is just right. But this was 30 years ago. Don't know what they sell for that now.

Normal for the height to change after driving the car. It will go lower if anything, and maybe not the same on each side. So get it close and drive it. Jouncing is fine but usually not enough to end the changes in height.

The manual doesn't say to lift the front end when adjusting height. When bolts are new and free from rust and dirt at the factory it won't harm them. For us 50+ years later it helps to wire brush and lube them and to raise the front end to have less load on the bolts. People have stripped them...

Plain old PS fluid. Not the kind that will stop or prevent leaks. That's just a gimmick that won't work anyway. Don't use any ATF or anything synthetic. Yes newer mopars use ATF+4, but this ain't a newer mopar, so it's wrong.

Don't run the car like this. The valve on top has been moved, and it needs to be moved back. Two bolts screw in straight down, holds the valve to the box. Now loosen and slide valve the other direction forward or back. It is slid all the way one direction right now.

Guys, it's been 50+ years, things get swapped on these cars. These bolts sit still for years and if you dont spend some time wire brushing rust, degreasing and soaking with penetrant they will not tirn smooth and destroy themselves. Sometime you can't save them.

There are different length bolts for these from Chrysler. I don't t believe the length matters much as long as you have threads left to adjust it. Factory bolts generally better than the aftermarket

Don't pinch the brake hose. Ever. Take the hose off of the brake line, put a small vacuum cap over the end of the steel line.

It went to supply vacuum to the speed control. You don't use speed control and power brakes at the same time, the brake pedal cancels the speed control. It does not go to and vacuum canister, they has a specific supply line.

A press is better How are you removing the old ones?

What you have IS the upgrade! Factory 4 piston brakes are not any better than what you have now. Hard to find parts and expensive when you do.

Clean it and find the leak source it may be an easy fix. Or get it rebuilt by a profrssional shop. Switch to manual is not that easy.

The hole is in a different place for manual vs power brakes. Power is higher up. Looks like they had a manual plate and made it fit Power brakes. You are keeping power brakes? That's the round hole type.

They don't care! No consequences.

You may need to remove the block from the housing to get a good grip on the damaged nut with a 3/8" wrench or vise grips. File some on th damaged nut somthe wrench will go on. Then hold the block with pliers To loosen the nut. People that operate like this need some consequences for damaging...