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Yep…2.76 or 2.94 gears

Maybe mic the rod journal and one next to it if you can’t figure out the bearing numbers?

Maybe my car was changed? It did have what I think was an E-body rear end (? - leaf springs forced onto not saddles about 1” to far out each side) when I bought it

Buy the car

70 Road Runner 383 power disk had 11”x3” drums in back

Simple version - loosen radiator and slide up a bit, then retighten bolts. You can do the same on the shroud

Replace after 5 yrs regardless of tread depth

I had good luck with mine. I took it out, glued, clamped and re-installed

You could ask MoparMark (?) on this website and I’m sure a few others to get a non-rusted out factory piece from a salvage car (I recommend OEM pieces) I 100% agree you should add at least some “basic” frame connectors. You can post a wanted add on this site or moparts.com and find a console...

Maybe keep your original carb if the core charge isn’t too high?

WOW! There is some super useful information above. Another way to look at it is you can measure what you need (assuming your yoke bolts to your pumpkin). As mentioned, you might not have a “typical” u-joint size, but you’ll find what you need if you know the dimensions you need (length & cap...

I think what you’re talking about is a yoke “sleeve”. That is a repair part. You should definitely get another sleeve pressed on by a quality machine shop or repair shop. Your yoke is worn right where the seal hits. A new sleeve will “build up and smooth out” the sealing area….so no more leaks...

For a stock conversion, I believe you will need (based on my ‘70) A. P/S box B. Pitman arm C. P/S pump, hoses & bracket D. Change center column shaft length as noted above (shorten it).

They push into a twist and turn socket

I “think” the lower flap folds around behind the fuse box. My aftermarket glove box doesn’t have that “lower flap” (fyi)

I don’t have the wiring diagrams, but the brake switch has direct power from the battery (always hot). The “outbound” wired go to the brake lights & your cruise control. So….see if you have 12volts at all times going at the brake switch. Push the brake pedal down and see if you have 12 volts...

Maybe post pictures of the master cylinder?

That would make me a little bit nervous.

Correct! All brake fluid is synthetic. There are no "brake fluid wells" to drill for "conventional" brake fluid.

I’ve put about 12 hrs of work into it so far. It was rusty, seized and bent when I got it (side swipe accident?)