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"It came from the factory that way".

I have a 60 over 1968 440HP that I picked up as a used short block about 35 years ago. Cost... a whopping $100. It's still going strong.... hoping to make it 60 years!

I have also dropped a 440 in my former 318 73 Charger. I route the 2, 4, 6 plugs down past the alternator, under the header, along the inner fender, and then into the plugs from under the header (Hooker Comps). You can do the same with 8 wire, or route it across the top of the engine behind the...

After holding them for decades, I just recycled 3 or 4 3-speed shifters last year. I may or may not have held onto one of them and can check if you are interested.

go to brewersperfromance.com for info and parts.

Buy a cheap thermal gun and check the actual temp. They are a handy tool.

Here is a good intake manifold read: https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/hrdp-0712-mopar-intake-manifold-comparo

Assuming the pushrod and rocker arm are ok, you just need to to remove the intake so you can get some eyeballs on the lifter and cam lobe. Expect not to be happy.

Change out both pulleys. They are readily available at the normal restoration parts sources.

That $2500 eBay block is worth about $100 or so more than any other 440 block. There are plenty of good core blocks out there on Marketplace and Craigslist for 1/5th of that price.

I have and aluminum case 1985 van 833OD behind a 383 in a road race car. I see speeds of 165mph and it has been without problems... so far. The case is most certainly weaker than regular 833's, but they can survive if not overly abused. There is a guy around here that has run one behind a 426...

Sorry I don't have a video, but the real difference that you will feel is not the shorter 1st gear ratio, but the distance between 2nd and 3rd. You will feel the need to rev 2nd higher than you normally would in a regular 833 before shifting into 3rd, and often times when you are driving back...

It all depends on the environmental conditions that they sit in. On TV shows they fire up and engine that has been sitting in a field for 30 years, yes, but how great and the rings and valve seats even though the engine runs? If you have any doubts at all, buy yourself a cheap borescope. It's...

It sounds like you need a qualified stunt driver. Send me an airplane ticket.

The vast majority of us started out doing this the low buck way. Some extremely ignorant people fail to recall that. At 23 years of age, few people had a bag full of fun money to throw at a project, let alone the will power to take on a car that was pushing 60 years old. Keep at it! :thumbsup:

I would see two options to work with $5k. 1. Buy some eddy performer heads, install 4.11 gears, and lighten the car with plastic racing buckets, empty the trunk, and anything else you can think off (heater, radio, back seat, etc. etc.). It's not optimal to live with the low compression pistons...

It depends on what you are going to do with it. The Brewers example... 500 inch Hemi in a heavy car power shifting into 3rd? I'm not surprised. It was not engineered for that. The aluminum case OD's were only intended for use behind mid-70's to 80's slant sixes and small block non-high...

If you don't drive much it will be fine, but the factory put it there for a reason. Think of all the grit, oil, dirt, bugs etc that are going to build up in there over time.

It should be warm. Are you sure oil is running through it?

I always check the fit dry, then if all looks good just the metal pan with a little bead of high temp silicone on the bottom wherever there are ribs, and more silicone around each intake port on top. The silicone is probably overboard, but it's good insurance.