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You will be better off cutting the floor to change out the top of the cross member. Pull the front seat/s out and the carpet for access. That will save the cost of a longer drive shaft and the car will handle and launch from a stand still better. If you can't fabricate the top cross member piece...
No reason you can't. You could stitch weld a horizontal strip of steel maybe 1-2" below the flanges, even use a "T" shape piece to gain more strength. Do you need extra strength? How much horse power are you planning?
Mike
If the outer skin is solid, you could grind the fold over thru and cut the reinforcement up into the unrusted area and remove the rusted section. Then fabricate (or hire someone to) a replacement and weld it in. If the fold over piece of the outer skin is wanted, a strip of metal could be welded...
Check the shift linkage for wear/maladjustment first. If it works in neutral it should do so in park position. It could also be a problem with the rooster comb inside although I've never seen one in my 50 odd years of working on Torqueflites.
Mike
Try these guys. I bought the ceramic 12 Ga. for the halogens I replaced the OEMs with-what a difference!
Mike
http://www.autolumination.com/wiring-electrical-connectors/light-bulb-bases-sockets-connectors-harnesses-plugs/hdl/headlight-foglight-connectors.htm