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I have stage 3 boxes with FR arms on both my 70 Challenger RT and my 73 Cuda, I think the term "harder" is a misnomer. It box and arms make the steering significantly "firmer" meaning that any input to the wheel has an immediate effect at the tires. I do not feel that the amount of steering...
@Cranky I completely agree and now thinking about it I remember buying a TA pitman arm from my local Dodge/Plymouth dealer and putting on my 74 Challenger. I remember being happy with the result but I did not change the idler arm. I had an AAR but never measured anything so I cannot say.
As to...
As promised I went and found the parts pieces and here is what I found (measurements are taken with a tape measure so they probably are not "dead nuts" and they are from center of the pin to the center of the hole)
Pitman arm
Stock = 6"
Fast Ratio = 7"
Idler Arm
Stock = 5 3/8"
Fast...
Id have to go and look again but I am pretty sure that the FR idler arm is shorter, mixing FR and non FR arms typically is not a good idea as I recall. If I remember I will go and look at the arms I have and try and get a pic.
I hate to admit this, but for me the enjoyment is building the cars, I rarely drive any of my classic cars... I know I should and I get all of the discussion about doing just that but I generally don't go anywhere and its far easier to take one of my newer vehicles.
I can say that I have clicked the red X and not left a comment as in some instances it just pours gas onto the fire. Sure I could just ignore it but what fun is that... Typically however if I disagree I will explain my point but it does not always work out with some people.
Oh I forgot to mention that I have FF stage 3 boxes with FR arms in my 70 Challenger and my 73 Cuda, those at first felt twitchy but once I got used to them they are awesome. They do not steer as well as my 01 GTS ACR Viper but they are not far off.
I had the same question which I posed to FF when I was buying all of my front end stuff; the FR arms and the Borgeson box but they said they didn't know how that would work out. I am prepared to go to stock arms if it is crazy twitchy. So here is my build list;
1.12 T bars
Rebuilt rear springs...
The guy sent me a link to his website which is not super functional in that he doesn't have a products tab or things for sale, however there is a lot of information and at the bottom of the page you can send him an email with your wants. He says he has a lot of Mopar boosters and can make up a...
I asked him about the prop valve issue and well as about the stock Saginaw PS pump and here is his responses
Prop valves only depend on the brakes you are using.
Stock Saginaw pumps are find and the flow valve is modifiable for more pressure using a Borgeson valve tool kit if you want to ramp...
I am more than happy to do so because I want to know as well. I agree that one can put together a working HB system for well under ~$1000 however I will post a roll up of costs at some point. There is a lot of wiggle room in costing because you can use rubber lines over SS braided, get a HB unit...
For those wanting to go down the HB path but don't want to do it like I am (the Johnny Cash method, 1 part at a time) and don't have to ability to fabricate and don't want to drop $1000+ on a kit, I recommend you check out this link...
I also asked about other HB units and the stud spacing for the master cylinders. Mopar MC spacing is ~3.2" (I measured 3.151 on mine) however Mopar HB units have a 3.4" spacing (basically .25" difference between them). There is a company called Hydratech who is selling a system wherein the MC...