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It was my Dad's car and he passed away 3 years ago...so no on 36K. But I saw alot of drivers for $30-$36k 3 years ago so that is why I had $36 k on it.Now I am seeing cars that are nice drivers or incorrect parts and paint on them for $40-$50k.
The prices of 68-70 Road Runners and Super Bee's seem to be getting crazy. I have seen 383 drivers from $30k - $50k . Mine is a 383 with the numbers motor in it. Restored in 1994. Still a nice car but a driver. I have it insured for 36k. Thinking maybe I should bump up the insurance.
Reason I ask is because I have had the amp wire burn up on other cars. If I remember right I disconnected the wires from the amp gauge and connected them together. Replacing the wire through the bulkhead with a heavier wire.Just wanted to know if there is a better way of doing this. Or if I can...
What is the best way to bypass the factory amp gauge on a 1969 with a Talley dash. I upgraded to a 100 amp alternator.I know it is common for factory amp gauge wire to burn up. I really do not want to pull out the gauge cluster.Can I dissconnet the wire off the post of my alternator. Then...
Anybody here ever rebuild a power steering box? How difficult is it to do? I guessing it is mainly seals and a few bearings. Who sells the rebuild kits? Mancini racing is the best price I have found for a new steering box $600
I have a axle seal leaking. I have never had to replace any of my 8 3/4 axle seals before. Do you guys and gals have and tips on removing and reinstalling these seals? Looks like the inner seal may be a ways in the axle tube.