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I dig pink. Congrats on your victories.

On the instructions it probably gives an ohms range. (I installed an upgrade version of this dist 2 years ago.) I used the Accel Super Stock coil.

If I buy just a crank from Molnar will they balance it for me with my bobweight?

Check the instructions and make sure the coil ohms are ok with that. And yes, it doesn't use a ballast resistor.

Be sure to get the area where the RTV goes good and clean. (I use lacquer thinner.) I wouldn't use the side seals. I would use RTV there also. Seal it up real good. My friend had to put a Fastfish seal in a problem child complete engine like that and it worked perfect. And he put it in backwards...

I personally think you can get clearance with much less grinding.

Several head/distributor combinations don't play well together. (Like a lot of other things nowadays.) It's not the end of the world. Just take your time and grind away a little clearance and everything will be fine.

All you need is a die grinder and a carbide burr. When you get your stuff back from the machine shop mock it up and see where (if any) you need to grind. All of their 440/512 kits are Chevy rods so that helps. Might have to grind on the oil pickup boss. Might take a couple of minutes. Don't...

All 350/361/413/383/400/440's came with 3/8", doesn't matter what year. All 426 Hemi's came with 1/2". You are better off with 1/2". Enjoy.

If the PO modified yours to 1/2" pickup that's good for you. Just buy a Hemi pickup for your new pan.

Basically, wedges use a 3/8" pick up and Hemi's use a 1/2" pickup.

I don't know anything about an LS but a buddy comes by from time to time and and he says they do. And we work on his LS bearings. We glued the last set in. And I've seen LS pinning videos etc.

What I meant is I don't recall it spinning easily by hand when it was put together. I think he put the cam in at his place. It was torn down here. I watched the video where you said and it turned easily. But I'm guessing it didn't turn that easily when it was put together. (They usually don't.)...

#1 I don't remember whose cam that one was (and you know I'm not protecting anyone because I will talk bad about any cam grinder) we were working on 4 engines at that time. #2 I assume it was bent when it was put in new. (Won't make that mistake again.) Never assume a new cam is straight. New...

What are the questions in your head? I've spent the last month working on cam/cam bearing issues. Maybe I can give you an answer. This is a cam straightening video I did recently. And last night I pulled a new Comp Cam out of the box that I bought last month. It was bent .007" but I got it...

Electronic

The cam bearing issues got worked out but it was a learning experience. And a lot of work. But I like learning stuff anyway. When you made that post yesterday I got on ebay to look around and scored on my favorite 383 Clevite main and rod bearings for only $107 total. That was a deal. So thank you.

No, it's earlier. I don't know what that notch is. I say it's not BBM.

The 440 Source kit comes with bearings. But I haven't had a problem finding main bearings on ebay. And I've never paid more than $110. I do prefer the Chevy rod bearings because it's easy to find exactly what you want cheap.

Spend a small amount of time (you have that) and find a 400 block. Do a little research and you will find out why. They are out there. I've bought a few for around $200 each. It will be the best money you spend on your build. By a long shot.