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I just started watching your video series.. 1,2,&3 done.. they are terrific!
I am adding a 1-wire 100amp alternator, dual electric fans, electric headlight door motors from Topher, and Dakota Digital gauges.. I'll also likely be adding an aftermarket radio (or having my stock radio modernized)...
Sure I know two active fuse link shouldn’t be there and hence my later correction when I began that tipically thread from dodgecharger.com back in 2007.
There is a 73 diagram which also shows a diff bypass method. I have posted around that one too.
Do you know for a fact that the standard ammeter dash wire to the battery is connected the ammeter along with the fleetby-pass wire? The fleetby-pass also involves cutting off and tapping back the original dash harness ammeter leads, should only have the by-pass ammeter to battery run active...
...Digital cluster or running a lot of high load aftermarket accessories. Happen to run a Dakota Digital RTX on one of my ‘72s. The full fleetby-pass won’t work, you do need to retain the power supply to splice one, it feeds the stock dash harness. Will not need to run any of the charge path...
Good reason to eliminate those un-needed disconnects in the charge circuit at the bulkhead connector, by-pass those troublesome Packard terminals as the factory did on their fleet production. By far the weakest link in this charging system, always has been.
Thank you so much!
It looks like.. if I understand this all right, which I think I do....
A) The factory alternator wiring will stand as it will feed the horn relay (violet) and "splice 1" (black) of the dash harness. However, I will add a fused #6 from the battery positive over to the...
...time period are verry stout and can handle quite a bit of current if the connections/insulators are not abused or neglected.
For the fleetby-pass, the dash harness 12ga ammeter wires were cut and taped off because the bulkhead terminations in the charge path are being by-passed with larger...
I kinda have mine like that now. The exception is that the stock black and red wires are still connected to the ammeter. They still go through the bulkhead, but the OEM wire going from the starter relay to through the bulkhead is also a fusible link.
1. I understand that it's better to...
...all the factory loads you seemed concerned with. As mentioned, only one run (one fusible link) from the battery to the ammeter, preferably not though the bulkhead disconnects.
Do not double up on the fusible link.
Another approach, upsized wiring, full bulkhead by-pass, "The FleetBy-pass".
My fleetby-pass took the charge wires from alternator through the firewall to the ammeter and from the ammeter back through the firewall to the starter relay. The bulkhead was by-passed. My ammeter remains in the circuit and fully functional. Crackedback’s kit was headlights only.
To be clear Crackedback’s charge circuit by-pass kit would not be considered as the factory “fleetby-pass” as discussed here. As I understand it, his kit by-passes the ammeter, defeating it’s purpose altogether. The later factory fleetby-pass is a bulkhead connection by-pass, the ammeter...
As mentioned, it refers the factory bulkhead by-pass, commonly referred to as the factory “Fleet” by-pass as it is mostly found in fleet production (Police/Taxi) with a high output factory alternator. The matching engine compartment diagram is on page 8-128 in the ’73 Dodge manual. The original...
...loads at all if all loads, including added aftermarket loads, are correctly placed on the alternator side of the ammeter.
The factory “fleetby-pass” is a charge circuit bulkhead connector by-pass, ammeter is fully functional. The bulkhead Packard connectors are the weakest link in the...
I’m going to modify my harness to delete the questionable bulkhead connections. Everything looks pretty straightforward,
Remove A1B-16DBL, increase wire size from alternator to 8 gage etc, but my only question is, does pin 18 share R6-12BK, which will now be called R6-8BK, with the new R6C-12BK...
...to do with this subject. When charging system is not operating, the battery is only voltage potential device.
Do you know what the “fleetby-pass” is? Chrysler eventually by-passed the bulkhead charge circuit terminations with direct runs to a modified shunted 80amp ammeter on police/taxi...
FWIW I did the fleetby-pass with 10 gauge wire, used Crackedback’s kit and LEDs everywhere but the headlights, which are OEM seal beams, with no problems with a stock 60 amp alternator. I put an amp clamp meter on and get 15 amps at idle, in gear @775 rpm, no lights. With lights on I get 17...
Yes, I touched on the factory “fleetby-pass” a bit in the video. As another example of the factory awareness of the bulkhead Packard connector weakness in the charge circuit from the time is a C-body recall (Recall 48549) that took place in the mid-seventies. Early seventies C-bodies ran this...
...using only larger wires to by-pass the bulkhead connections for vehicles having a 60,65, or 100 amp alternator from the factory. The fleetby-pass would still use an ammeter as indicated in the diagrams but an internally shunted ammeter scaled/ranged to +/- 80 amps. No charging system idiot...