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As far as I know, just the A-833, whatever the 3-speed manual is and anything produced by Brewers Performance. The A-833 is very strong

I’ve found that aftermarket sending units don’t read correctly….not any of them, not even close

Oh, I like that!

No. It does go in the water pump housing, but it screws in the on the passenger side "back into" the housing, not "down into" the housing

I'm not concerned with a purely original look. I took both the blue & brown wires, coming from the bulkhead disconnect (big bunch of wires & 3 big plugs on firewall), that go into the ballast resistor and splice those two together + also splice in the blue wire coming out of the ballast...

I think I’ll pass, but thanks though

Either of those guys can help you, or you can try classicindustries.com. They show a 1 barrel (bbl) carburetor rebuild kit for 1960-1971 Carter carburetors on 6 cylinder engines. This kit will have many extra pieces you won’t need because the kit has the parts for a wide range of similar...

Yep. Send me an instant message with your PayPal account email and I’ll send it

Lean Burn elimination is common. The whole system, distributor, etc removed & replaced with a ‘72-style (or aftermarket) ignition

Here’s an example from an American online parts company (Parts Geek) https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1964/plymouth/valiant/carburetion/carburetor_repair_kit.html What you really need to do is determine what “number” carburetor you have. The carburetor number is one of the numbers on the...

What car did they come off of? If correct for me, I’ll take them. I see 68-70, but from what car?

Can’t remember the number. It’s in the owners manual (online)

That is your fuel bowl vent, similar to the center carburetor on a six pack setup. If fuel comes out there, you either have a “sunk float” with a hole in it OR a needle & seat that is stuck open. The float and needle&seat work exactly like a toilet. Water (or gas) fills up, float goes up & shuts...

You need a price. They’ll go to a good home here

Others here know more….but if you have a driveshaft that’s the correct length and attaches that “trunion” (?) tail shaft, I think you’re in good shape….maybe the shifter needs changing? Maybe not? You need pedals, a tang (?) to weld on the frame to connect to the z-bar (linkage), make sure your...

Maybe check the hole diameter compared to a side marker bulb socket?

Dr diff is the favorite here, but moser or strange axles are good too. I’m not sure about Yukon

Why are you pulling the motor? Not needed to replace the oil pan (fyi)

I just did this with “decent” results. I used a 1-component moisture cure polyurethane and some hardware store wood clamps. I think you could soften the vinyl VERY CAREFULLY with a heat gun (???)

I believe that means one or more bearing was .001” oversized from the factory. If it has an “x” thenone or more bearings is .010” oversized from the factory. Looks like 5,2,3 are .010” oversized (not sure if that’s rods or mains….I think it’s right at the front of the engine section in the...