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1. Check the steering coupler (“rag joint” that’s not a rag) 2. Check inner & out tie rod ends 3. Check idler arm & pitman arm 4. Last thing (I think) is to, after all the other stuff, tighten the worm gear maybe 1/4-1/2 turn. At least, that’s what I did on my manual steering box before I went...

My 2-cents? Buy a pre-bent Y-pipe, pre-bent tail pipe & Walker muffler and have your exhaust shop fabricate the rest.

You are correct….rear tack strip foam where the top bolts to the body

‘69 front sway bar???

I owned a ‘78 400 4bbl Cordoba. My 2-cents 1. Keep the headers 2. Either way with the A/C OEM or Sanden, whichever is cheaper and you can find parts for 3. No need for R-12. R-134 is just fine. Sell the R-12 to pay for your entire R-134 A/C system 4. Put the mechanical radiator back in, and...

Dang

Very well said!

@autoxcuda is correct. You’ll need old AFB style carburetors for that air cleaner (I’m no Hemi expert fyi)

I used a sump like this and I did block the fuel hole with a rubber cap. I’ve “considered” using the hole for a fuel return line, but haven’t done it Summit Racing SUM-290303 Summit Racing™ Steel Fuel Tank Sumps | Summit Racing

My 2-cents? Fix your oil leak & maybe replace the PCV valve??? You’ve got the catch can installed correctly

I only use the factory sending unit for the fuel gauge. I pull fuel out of holes in an add-on sump. You could build your own fuel pickup too pretty easily

UPDATE - just got back from working on the car. 1. Swapped back to previous cap/rotor and it “seemed” to be slightly better. (?) It seems to want to idle about 1200-1300 rpm after the engine is warmed up…not 900 rpm like before the repair, but not 1800 rpm anymore. 2. Checked very closely for...

She’s pretty

An AI hallucination. The long piece looks like dash sound proofing, the small piece looks like kick panel sound proofing. The fender shaped piece doesn’t look familiar (to me anyway)

Doesn’t sound right

Good question - see post

Good question! The car idled smoothly at 900 rpm. I had an electrical fire that burned up the leads going to the distributor pickup. The pickup wires didn’t short out, actual flames burnt the insulation off (car still idled & ran fine after the fire). After I fixed the wires and replaced the...

Hmmm….could be. That pump is 10 yrs old and it’s dead-headed. I have a 2nd regulator/pump for the nitrous which is virtually new. I will look to see which is easier once this cold weather passes A. Rebuild regulator #1 or B. switch engine fuel over to regulator (or pump & regulator) #2

Idle was about 900 rpm. The carburetors were not removed, so I can rule out the base plate gasket (accelerator cam changed without removing any carburetors). What is “H”?

That makes a ton of sense. I will take a look while I'm putting the old rotor/cap back on.