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Hmmm….could be. That pump is 10 yrs old and it’s dead-headed. I have a 2nd regulator/pump for the nitrous which is virtually new. I will look to see which is easier once this cold weather passes A. Rebuild regulator #1 or B. switch engine fuel over to regulator (or pump & regulator) #2

Idle was about 900 rpm. The carburetors were not removed, so I can rule out the base plate gasket (accelerator cam changed without removing any carburetors). What is “H”?

That makes a ton of sense. I will take a look while I'm putting the old rotor/cap back on.

Makes sense, but I never removed any of the carburetors, just the cam & guts of the distributor all on the motor.

Good idea, but I can see it's not touching.

That's a good idea. I just replaced what was burned up & added the cap/rotor because the rotor was slightly discolored on one edge.

Good point. I did burn up the vacuum hose going to the the front carb. I replaced the hose, but maybe I missed a hole on another section.

Anything in particular I should be looking for? I've never taken one apart. I've been running this one for 10 yrs.

You can probably find a set on this website

Remove the weight & also have the flywheel spin balanced

440 6bbl w/steady fuel pressure, electronic Direct Connection distributor. Some of this might be unrelated. Car was running well with a good amount of initial timing. New heads & valves adjusted less than 1000 miles ago. Engine would “cough” out of the carbs “occasionally” during startup. Power...

I’m running a dead-headed Holley blue fuel pump & my Holley fuel pressure regulator recently started “clicking”. It’s never done this before. What’s up? Fuel pressure is set at 5-1/2 psi & fuel pressure is steady (mechanical guage) (I’ve got a 4 sec video, but can’t figure out how to upload it)

For me, I prefer lower than stock front & rear for better handling. Watch out for front tire clearance. Set it where you like. However, as I’m learning, Mopar stock suspension doesn’t allow for a lot of caster (desirable). There are inexpensive upper control arm caster adjustment cams that can...

I’m not sure about the mains, but the cylinders can be sleeved pretty easy

Nice job on the guage bezel!!!

I believe the founder of “Isky” cams passed yesterday. Run your best time Ed & Godspeed

I found that the “zig zag” thicker sections of Mopar seat springs are still available as “couch replacement springs” on EBay…damn near identical & available in different lengths. You may need to “de-arch” the new repair springs (by hand) a little bit

These guys are onto something. Is that the PASSENGER seat? If not, the seat tracks are on the wrong side(s). The wire goes through the “folded metal strip” & that strip attaches to the front “hook” on the seat frame & the adjuster goes towards the door (left side of seat for driver & right side...

Some codes are stored (“hard codes”), other codes are only readable when the light is on (“soft codes”). Most CEL codes “self-clear” (“soft codes”) after the problem is fixed

Maybe modify the linkage itself by drilling holes higher up on each shift lever? You’d have to double check that you have enough threads on the shifter rods & possible extend the threads further on them (?)