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I’ve got a Hurst line lock too, but not yet installed. As I understand it, you block off one of the front brake lines coming out of the distribution block. Run the single front brake line into the line lock. Coming out of the line lock, you install a “T” that lead to both front brakes
Newer, better products came out. Instead of drilling a hole and using offset bushings to degree a cam, you just turn the crank gear to a different notch. Much easier. FYI - I’m running one of those Direct Connection Stimming chains now
Good advice above. First, see what the shop says about you rods, block, crank. On the cheap, look for an entire engine rebuild kit with the pistons you want. Ask here and get 100 cam recommendations
Not only that, it’s too large a diameter on the water pump end for a factory fan to bolt into it. I tried that fan clutch last weekend and returned it 2 days ago
1. Make sure you don’t have spark by disconnecting one plug wire, put an extra plug in it, ground the threads of the plug to a good bolt (eg alternator bracket) & have a buddy crank it over to check for spark
2. Test for continuity (ohms) across your ballast resistor with the wires going to it...
Sounds like vapor lock…. But it could be your ignition box. I had a 318 Charger act like that. The back of the ignition box was “gooey” (heat I guess). Replaced the box and problem gone