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One can always poke a hole and solder a return anywhere that suits you. Drill your hole smaller than you need and drive a tapered punch in the hole to open it up. That will flare out the metal and give you a strong solder joint.
Mike
I already have a maxed out radiator custom built by Wizzard and A/C so I did not want to add any extra heat up front. I also have a PS cooler up front but not in the radiator air flow path.
Mike
My 65 Belvedere was gasket first, as I watched a pro install it. The lip is rolled in to lock it in place. Along with lots of hand slaps on the glass. Don't forget the butyl caulk either.
Mike
I've seen a number of cowl hole punched rather than drilled-it's faster and doesn't need a grommet. The drilled fender slug was probably done by a dealer.
Mike
I just got home from my weekly 90 mile ride. Today I rode my snowmobile. It was 0* F when I left at 11:30 and -17* when I got home. I had a Blast! As usual.
Mike
I will add that the wiper opening was of poor appearance and not centered on the pivot shaft so I cut the old area out tacked on the new piece in the correct position and cut thru both at once for a good fit, welded it back together. I welded in several patches to the passenger side cowl also.
Mike
If you clamp a large ball peen hammer in your bench vise it can be used as a anvil to support the dented dust cap while you off center hammer out the dents.
Mike
I recommend you pull the engine apart and start at zero with a complete reassemble. Check and double check each component as you go. Check the cam lobe positions, keyway indexing, degree the cam, check deck heights, check the damper with TDC.
Clean out water passages in the block and heads-start...