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I got my terminal release tool today. It really works slick. Comfortable handle, long release arms to get down into the cavity of the connector body.

Lubrication is not necessarily the issue from what I understand. It's the lack of proper crown on the face that makes the lifter spin. The cam lobe needs a slight angle as well which some shops have found missing on bad cams.

I'm sure Worman reads the White book for his information. And that's ok but it's not always accurate or correct. I find original documents on the Hamtramck site which are closer to the truth. The 1970 Hamtramck Registry - 1970 Paint Chip Charts Slideshow

And a squirt of milk? :rofl:

Now you are pissing me off. Have you done business with Bob at Glen Ray? Have you ever restored a car worthy of their work? He is a top notch guy and GR is a top notch company. He is retiring and someone bought him out. Huge shoes to fill. I would estimate 90+% of the high end restored Mopars in...

No. Other companies make them. Unless the supplier tells you, the manufacturer isn't known. Same part numbers may be a clue.

Just an off shore company that repops the switches. They have been found to be no good by many members...

A member on FABO resurfaces them. It would be smart to send a new set his way to be corrected. Sean @NC Engine Builder

I did post this in another thread but it bears repeating. Here is another option. I was able to buy a whole column from a friend with a solid feeling oem switch in it. It was a turd to get the terminals released (another story) but the switch came out fairly easy and cleaned up nice. I will...

Pics I forgot to show and save.

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That is really stylish! I bet there are screws to hold it on.

Too bad no one makes a replacement heater assembly with a normal core and blower. Or an A/C kit. Some crafty fellow could design a mode switch to replace the vacuum operated pushbuttons and just use the buttons and faceplate to actuate.

Those horn rings can be tricky. Mine comes off with a screw on each side.

I'm with you there. I took the fresh air hose off the heater fan housing and blew in there to dis-lodge some leaves in there making a racket. As soon as I put it back together, I started it up and it immediately poured antifreeze onto the drivers floor. I should have left it alone. :mob: :mob:

Ma Mopar must have used some white lithium on the fingers where the cancelling pin rides just to make the engagement and cancelling a bit smoother. The stuff I cleaned off was really old and crusty. I did take my original switch apart (I wonder what I did with that) I don't remember anything...

So tempted to spray a little WD to make things operate a little smoother but that's a no no.

The old switch cleaned up pretty good.