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Here's mine. Started life as a 318 car. Now has a rebuilt 413hp out of a '65 300L. Teal on Teal.

If you do have a good reproduction scoop the back edge of the scoop should follow the same contour of the hood rear edge. The last I checked the hood scoop should be an inch from rear of hood...

Very nice. Love early B-bodies.... I have a '66 Satellite that hasn't been on the road since 2004, and time still flying by.

Ran into the same problem when replacing my fuel tank. No fuel to the carb, I thought I messed up somewhere as well. But it just turned out the fuel pump took a dump. Replaced fuel pump. Problem solved .

Hi Guys, Thanks for the input. I just heard back from Auto City Classic and they said: "That is the drain plug". (Plastic) :realcrazy:. that sucks!

Just received my new 22" radiator for my '65 Plymouth Satellite. So far so good. fits nicely with very little mods. Has anybody replaced that plastic drain plug on their ACC radiator or do you just leave it in? I have looked for a 7/16-20 petcock for it but no luck so far. the original valve...

casting numbers 2203262 and 2205898. these are the correct ones for a 1964 1965 426 Street Wedge.

Looks to be a C-Body fan shroud. https://www.ebay.com/itm/326083767089?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=-WOgTHbVSw2&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Similar issue. Wanting to plug the master cylinder. The problem is trying to find the rear 9/16-20 inv flare plug.

Hey guys, I'm looking at isolating my new dual master cylinder for some brake troubleshooting (very soft pedal) after several brake bleeds. I like to plug the master first see if I got a defective master cylinder, if not than isolate front and rear to see if that may be an issue. The problem...

Great !!. Just what I was looking for. Someone who has repaired there's. Thanks for all the input. :thankyou:

Hey guys, I searched here in the forums, google, youtube and I can't find where anyone shows how or if the Star on the back of the center horn button can be fixed or repaired. Has anyone repaired a loose or completely detach star? Pictured is a Plymouth (Lt) & Dodge (Rt). The Dodge one is...

^^^^ agreed ^^^^^

^^^Totally agree. Put that cam in my 383 and required a 3000 stall converter. It really came to life when I changed out the 8 3/4 pumpkin with 3.91 gears. It loved gasoline...:lol:

Congratulations.. love them early B-body post cars. And in "Black":thumbsup: Mines a hardtop 383/4-speed.

Turbine Bronze!! One of my all time favorite colors. :icon_fU: Good looking ride, wish I was closer to OH.

Thanks again for all the loctite recommendations. 603 or 609 seems the way to go. I've added loctites chart, any preferences over one or the other?

Thanks for the input guys. Much appreciated! I'll try the loctite method first and see how it goes. If not I'll have to look for a machinist then. Bob

I'm hoping someone can help that may have ran across this as well. I just discovered that the outer bearing race spins inside the front wheel hub. The brake drum is a 11" x 3" and from the looks of it they are hard to find or come by. I have read on other forums people using a knurling tool...