Search results for query: *

Might need some WD-40 and a large pry bar to get the rear shackles out if the bushings if they are all dry and rusted. Be careful, I did have a car fall off the cheap type jack stand trying to get one of the rear shackles out of the body. I think I cleaned up the bushing hole in the body with...

Check what the required primer/sealer color is supposed to be. With the Summit Racing Bronze single stage paint, they want that over a black primer/sealer

Sorry I can't help, but I'll watch this because I have a 2008 6.1L with the Nag1 pullout I might try swapping into an old coronet also.

Look at the shift kit instructions for how the throttle valve / spring assembly goes into the valve body, and also the gap between the throttle valve and lever stop.

looks good. make sure to use matching valve springs

If a re-ring will seal it up, run the low compression and a high stall converter. Sounds like it's just until the other engine is done.

No under car or suspension photos, and no photos with the top up? Sort of an odd situation where it looks like a pretty nice almost survivor, but nice paint job and some other items taking away the survivor vibe. Fully restored I could see it getting $100,000 by those who want the new/restored...

Testors Fluorescent paint, but I blended some yellow and I think a touch of green with the orange to get a shade closer to stock looking.

The mounting plate was sold by a member here. The Infinity Kappa magnets are pretty big and hit the heater cable originally before I installed the vintage air system.

https://www.imperialservices.net/imps.html

Short circuit. as mentioned check that the bulbs are correct for the sockets. I would remove all the bulbs and inspect sockets and wiring, the see if fuse blows with bulbs removed. If it still blows, remove the drivers side kick panel and disconnect the rear wiring harness from the connector...

I have the blue, I think moroso brand gaskets. Solid cam, so wanted something re-useable.

That looks really nice with alot of upgrades. just make sure to inspect it in person before buying it.

need to inspect the parts, but if it is in decent condition where it is more of a re-fresh than a rebuild, then most rebuild kits will supply all the gaskets, seals, and sealing rings. You need to make sure it is correct for your year transmission. Many kits will have seals and rings for...

Max lift don't matter in piston to valve clearance. Max lift is at the intake centerline, usually around 110 degrees crank rotation, so the piston is way down the bore at max lift. The closest points are around overlap when the piston in nearing TDC the exhaust is closing, and when the intake...

Correct. That just give a known starting value. Piston position down the bore can then be calculated for each degree of crank rotation. Cam grinder should be able to calculate lift around TDC overlap (with an installed ICL position) to have a good idea of what P-V will be. You can do these...

Thanks. I have seen the RMS suspension, but never used one. Was curious if front end was coming up to transfer weigh? I bought the pricy ($400/each) Viking triple adjustable shocks for the Charger right before Bandimere closed and haven't had a chance to try them / adjust them at the track. I...

Depending on which "stock" pistons are in the engine, the larger cam might have piston to valve clearance issues. My 383 was rebuilt with the forged flat tops, but also the engine deck was milled so the pistons were just slightly below the block deck, and my heads were also milled 0.040" for...

I think the 3-prong switch needs the valve body rooster comb shift lever that has the plastic guide part where the switch is. The earlier single connection NSS switch, I don't think has the plastic guide. If not the switch, the plastic guide could also be broken? A-727 Detent Lever Plastic...

What front suspension setup and shocks?