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If the cam is installed at 107 degrees intake centerline, and with the 228 duration on the exhaust the idle vacuum is normal. Raise the idle with the gauge connected to about 2,000 rpm steady and you should see 18 to 22 inches of vacuum.
Yep, I agree timing is most likely retarded, on my dyno header temps will go up if timing is way slow. I see normal 1200-to-1300-degree exhaust temps on a well-tuned engine about 1 inch from the flange. When they get to about 1600 the tube will start to glow.
OK I keep mouse poison out in my detached garage all year and have not had a problem before, but this year when I pulled off the car cover to get the car ready for a show, a mouse ran across my feet when I started the car and it smelled like urine inside. So I pulled the back seat and it had a...
I agree I have used standard jets in an AVS with no issues. Today's fuel with alcohol in it requires a slightly richer jet and if it sits, can cause corrosion in older Carter carbs. Gas station up the street keeps 91 octane with no alcohol and that is what I use in all my older cars and even...
My son and I for many years have gone to Eli Minnesota to go camping and fishing. You may not like to rough it, but the fishing is excellent and one of the most beautiful and pristine wilderness areas I have been to. Lots of outfitters for canoe and gear.
I am not a fan of thumper cams never seen one run right. I would pick a hydraulic roller around 230 @ .50 duration and about .530 lift on a 110 centerline
using a vacuum gauge to diagnose worn valve guides is pretty hard. A guide has to be loose enough to cause the valve to rock on the seat. So you should be seeing oil smoke when you start it if the guides are loose.
Fluctuations in the needle indicate a valve not sealing, or opening properly...
stripping down my 65 Coronet Convertible, and in pulling out the dash and wiring harness came across this weird switch, it has Yankee 760 warning switch, it appears to be aftermarket as the harness ties into the signal harness with squeeze connectors. I guess it is a 4 way hazard switch? My...
2618 pistons expand more when hot, .005 is a good clearance in my experience, if they are as tight as you measure it will scuff the skirts. On a racing engine I run them as loose as .007 to keep them from scuffing. Make sure when measuring the piston you do it in the right spot on the skirt...
Depends if are you building stock or race? The Oregon kit is a good choice for a race unit with the red clutches, kevlar band, most of the stock builds I use the alto green clutches. I seldom use a kevlar band for stock rebuilds.
As mentioned probably has a shift kit in it. And if you can drop the valve body they most likely left the spring out of the accumulator. Putting that spring back in will calm down the harsh shifts in my experience.
If you look at the power flow and the size of the gears 1,2,3rd should take as much as a stock A-833 but I would not power shift into OD that would be the weakest gear on the output .
When I build an engine first step is to measure everything and then decide on what machine work is actually needed. The majority of the time boring and cleaning is all that is required. If it needs line bored and decks done for example many times it is just cheaper to find a better block.
I have rebuilt transmissions since 1976 and even for me it is tough, because there is more than one way to do things in a valvebody. What I do is save instructions for different shift kits in a binder for reference. usually, the giveaway is the orifice plate in the valve body the holes are...
Well you have to swap the transmission as well to go to a big block and at least modify the exhaust system. You can buy a stroker kit for the 318 and get 392 inches for less than $2,500 so you get the same cubic inches, add a set of decent heads or port your old ones and you may be surprised...