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Thanks. I have a buddy who is keeping his eyes open for a 65-67, as it is the width he needs for his F-body. What are the specifics of the rear end please?

Thanks. If I can find a good housing locally for a few bucks I’ll pick it up. Otherwise, I’ll get this one fixed proper.

Took a bore scope to the inside today. There is a fine crack on the inside that follows this red line.

In the Metro Detroit and surrounding areas - Looking for a good condition housing, with axles is okay too. 70 B-body

Using his feet … haha. You paint an entertaining picture.

Just tore down and cleaned up my 70 B-body 8 3/4 rear. The housing has this terrible welding on it, yet the inside is as it should be. Looks like the flange washed out and it was built up with terrible weld. Factory???

Haven’t found a place to buy a new one. Appreciate any leads there.

Just got my front suspension back together and on the ground. Torquing the pivot shaft nuts, one side went to 145ft-lb without issue. On the other side, the nut will not seat before stopping. Not even the impact would move it along. The threads near the deformed end of the nut look a bit messed...

Yes, so that defined top and bottom, but left / right was still in question. Good now though.

Gets a little closer to the sump, but all kinds of room still. I don’t see an impact either way, but would like it to be “correct”.

1970 B-Body. I want to ensure I don’t have the drag link flipped. Should the bend be going away from the sump or towards it. Currently I have it away from.

I had to do engine bay and used 66 Auto Color to source my paint. 2K Spray Max rattle can primer and the 2K Spray Max single stage which they mixed the color on and it is real close (Hemi orange). Not cheap at all, but went on nice and no clean-up. Worked for me, that’s all I know.

I found that the re-pop arms now carry a warning that says the K772 is too small and that the K772C is the correct replacement ball joint.

The offset bushings pressed in fine. I found out through research that my stock ball joints were not cross threaded, but that they are a different thread than the Moog upper ball joint. One of mine torqued to spec, the other stripped out.

A couple weeks ago, I got an email back on Saturday eve only 3 minutes after I emailed him. Super responsive and helpful. I buy all I can from him.

I bought the repops. Looked pretty good. I swapped out the bushings for moog offset bushings. Also replaced the ball joints with moog. ISSUE- One of the ball joints (left side) was cross threaded so threads are shot and my new ball joint won’t tighten up. Sucks.

Thanks all. I picked up a spacer and am getting it looking nice right now.

70 440 electronic ignition, long tube headers. I bought MSD Street Fire wires many moons ago and am just now installing. They have straight boots on the plug side, and 6-90 degree 2-straight boots in the distributor side. Straight boots are only long enough to reach 2 or 4, maybe 1. Also, the...

The offset I have is about 5/8”. The bracket you show looks to be more than that. But that type of bracket would do the trick.