Search results for query: *

The picture of it where it's parked in the driveway with the steel wheel on the back is 50th street near 28th ave in Astoria Queens, a couple blocks from what was the "connecting highway" back then, which was a popular spot to street race at the time.

The block with the goofy splayed main bearing cap bolts is a caterpillar 1100 series v8 diesel.

Bust out the drill and hog out that crank. The hole doesn't need to be precise, just large enough and deep enough to clear the input shaft.

That might have been a previous owners way of bypassing the seatbelt-starter interlock system if it became troublesome.

If starting fluid didn't give you any signs of life then it's definitely an ignition issue. You didn't mention if the ignition box was replaced but make sure it has a good clean ground especially if it's been replaced recently. While on the subject of ignition boxes I've seen new ones from the...

Poly 318

Sounds like a wheel speed sensor dropping the signal out at low speed. Do you have access to a scan tool that will show ABS data?

The ICC bar isn't going to do squat at that speed, He hit so hard he knocked one of the axles right out of that trailer.

It has a 4bbl intake with an adaptor plate for a 2bbl

Keep it down by you... lol

I noticed that too, looks like a late 50's GMC cannonball cab up front and VW bus in the rear. Just like a mullet, business up front, party in the back.

A 4 pin ignition box will work on a 5 pin system w/ dual ballast resistor. A 5 pin ignition box will not work on a 4 pin system w/ single ballast resistor. All factory style ignition boxes must be grounded to function.

It's got one hell of a body lift kit on it, I'm guessing the cab still has the small tunnel from when it was 2wd. Can't tell what transfer case it has, hopefully not the full-time 4wd one and it has lockout hubs up front. Looks like dana 60's front and rear, probably 4.10 gears in it.

Plan on getting about 8 miles per gallon with that thing.

Try the valve cover with bolts instead of studs, see if the cover will come on and off without the studs in the way.

The 68 k frame takes a different style idler arm than the 66, you'll need to use the later style arm.

Slap that thing in straight up, it's good with iron intake/exhaust manifolds . It's a pretty tame cam, good for a little bump in HP on a stock engine.

I suspect the quality of the shoe has changed in the last 20 years. Have you ever tried a set of insoles? Although any type of insert is going to inherently make the shoe feel narrower, but it might take pressure off of one area and transfer it to another.

Here's my 2 cents, monday morning quarterback assessment of the situation, you've got a couple of issues that are stacking up against you. #1: oil pressure is slow to come up upon first start when cold/ been sitting for a while usually is an oil filter drain-back issue or a weak oil pump or...

Got any pictures? There could be more going on than just caster angle. If the caster is that far off you might want to cut the spring perches off and weld new ones on at the right angle, this is assuming it's a tube axle.