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Don, your mailbox is full and I’m trying to message you.

Sadly that doesn’t even look like a Super Bee painted like that, at least to me. Not sure if paint or god awful wheels.

Looks like the rear negative/grounding wire is missing from the engine block to firewall, which can create all sorts of reliability issues. See yellow circled area. Unless there’s a lead somewhere else. Should be two, negative battery to front right of engine block, and back left to firewall.

Problem fixed. Wires at tic toc tach were reversed.

What are my tests telling me is wrong? No spark at coil test lead when jumping battery + straight to coil +? No spark at coil test lead when doing the above posted dizzy test? I’ve tested 3 different coils, 1 brand new and 2 others were previously on Bee and worked.

Car originally came with Tic toc tach. Looks like I’m hooked correctly then, gray wire is to longest stud and red wire is going to fuse panel.

I’m wondering if my OER tic toc tach (69 Bee) is causing my no spark issue and curious if I have it hooked up correctly. The gray tach wire is going to upper terminal and red wire to bottom terminal. Not sure if I labeled the back correctly, so disregard my notes on tach back. The clock works...

And this test was useless, still no spark, but I can hear buzzing every time I ground the exposed dizzy plug. Maybe it’s in the bulkhead.

Ugh, while troubleshooting, I read this post 20 times and this morning it finally makes sense. Will try this tonight and see if dizzy problem.

And the spark testing wire is connected to the coil or the dizzy? At the coil, no spark.

Can the spark testing be done with the dizzy unmounted, like in pic, or does it need to be mounted. Based on certain previous post, it should be able to be tested like this for spark.

Recently installed my 440 engine, that ran properly last year. Was pulled to fix an oil leak. (Car is running Mopar electronic ignition conversion and has been issue free for years). Now, when trying to start, I have no spark from coil, based on coil test lead plug grounded to chassis. When...

Hood painted and vinyl applied. Still need to do some final tweaks with hood pins to get gaps better

Awesome sauce!

No, just the limiting plate.

FBO distributor limiting plate. Never used. 0-10-12-14-16-18* Mechanical Timing limits This FBO Advance limiter plate will allow you to have the limiting abilities of a Mopar Performance Distributor in minutes. Quick easy and changeable as your engine performance level changes. One Simple...

Yes, got the rear brackets and pins from Jim’s Mopar Parts in NH. Nice thick steel. I had Glasstek reinforce the front and it really came out nice. They had a floor model at the Indy swap meet that I could have purchased, but it felt too wimpy. This one is way better.

Underside.

Will get some

Beautiful Glasstek hood installed. Was way easier than I thought, especially after measuring 5 times and drilling once. Now for paint and final brackets install/tightening.