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I ordered a 75A alternator, (thinking the original 60A was shot), no big draws in the system. It's my understanding from other posts that a faulty ammeter can be cause for the system to go dark, but maybe not associated with the charging circuit. I also have a new VR and starter relay on the...
I always remove the ac from my old cars. Small blocks are easy just measure the length you need and bypass the ac. You will only be able to run one belt as the other would hit the water pump. Big blocks are more of a pain. I didnt feel like trying to find the non ac brackets for the alternator...
Hey everyone! I posted previously about some issues I was having with my 1969 Charger not running right. The responses were very helpful and we thought we had the problems resolved, but now they're worse than ever. What's weird is that the more new parts we put on it, the worse it runs. The car...
Okay I have been chasing this for 2 months.
It is a 72 Charger with 70 amp alternator square back 2 field
Fully replaced engine wiring harness when restored 10 years ago
Replaced the bulkhead connector last year
Replaced the ignition switch and fixed al the connections {did this today}...
The batteries I've used are all NAPA auto parts brand. They can sit for 2-3 months or more if disconnected and still be good enough to crank this over if they are disconnected.
The horn has never worked. The prior owner put in a doorbell switch and an aftermarket horn.
I put in a radio, it...
Let me ask you this,if all the wires are new why would I want to bypass the alternator gauge? I dont drive the Bee at night.The reason I ask is Im going to switch out my cluster with a restored one in a couple weeks.
I'd run a dedicated wire from alternator to battery in trunk.
Run a fused wire from battery or alternator to your starter relay to supply operating power to the car/cabin. Or keep the stock charge wires in place and bypass ammeter as it will be ineffective with a wire direct to starter relay or...
I converted my Alt to a Volts gauge and was going to connect it to the back of the fuse box to a switched connection, since I don't have A/C and most likely won't use the heater.
I have all new harnesses that I am ready to install. I am doing to connect the alternator gauge wires together, to...
Not seeing any posts addressing the voltage drop noted in the original post. You have a 1.3 volt voltage drop between the reference voltage lead at the regulator (blue wire) and the battery while under load? That needs to be corrected, take voltage drop measurements at all the connections...
Bypass the Ammeter inside the car (which is a fire waiting to happen).
This link will provide all the information you need;
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
If you have a weak or dead battery, just recharge it completely (with a physical battery charger) rather than...
Depends on how you did the bypass. If you followed madd which I'm not a fan of, then put a fuse/fusible link in that now attaches at the starter relay that feeds the cabin.
If you left all the OEM wiring in place, place a fusible link in the charge wire from alt to starter relay.
Sizing of...
Another reason I prefer Tuff Stuff. Again, at the risk of repeating myself here, simple explanation, with no change to the bone stock loads, heathy stock charge wiring and related connections, the alternator will not create additional charge/load current. All things being equal, the car is not...
Can't send you a PM for some reason. Shoot me a PM with an email
I can make one up for you. Let me know engine, alternator and if you have an ammeter bypass in place.
A kit delivered in the US is about 175
Thanks for the inquiry, I look forward to building a kit for you.
Rob
For a 75 amp alternator, you would want an 8 gauge wire. That means the fuseable link needs to be a number 12. it’s always four wire sizes less than your wire size.
you can send it to the starter relay or the battery, doesn’t matter. The battery wire is running there so either place is really...
I have a 'square back' alternator, two field tabs, one of which I have grounded to the case. I've replaced the regulator and starter relay, tied the ammeter wires together and how have charging to the battery, 13.2 0 13/7V at idle. I will put a #12 fuesable link or two in the system, one from...
Other steps? Should have been the first step, bypass the charge circuit bulkhead connectors, by far the weakest link in the original design. For those who have not yet mutilated their ammeter, check its connections, insulators, and then leave it alone. Learn to understand the information it...
Alternator output wire to Battery Positive or Starter relay should be sized according to the alternator rating and current demand.
The fuse at the battery / starter relay should be a slow-blow fuse like a maxi-fuse or mega-fuse that is rated to protect the wire gauge size.
The fuse is there to...
In a stock configuration, by-pass the charge circuit bulkhead terminals (the real weak link in the original design, always has been), check the connections/insulators at the ammeter then leave it alone. The ammeter will provide much more real time charging system status information than a...