Search results for query: *

Great now i can rip them apart :)

Great, that actually did the job, i only lost a couple of 'pins' which were pushed inside, any idea what came in?

Not sure how to unplug these clips for the side panel, pull? :D They're tight as hell. I don't like the fact that the are painted before, and cannot find the name for some aftermarket clips, but that is maybe my lake of English..

My front and rear bumpers on the 1968 GTX cost (twice) more to restore per side then ordering new one from for example Classic Car Industries. What is the quality of these aftermarket bumpers? I'm also looking for these chrome side panels which is on the left and right side under the doors.

'70 GTX looks like a beauty :D Do you have any more picture from (my) GTX during that time? Doesn't matter the conditions :)

This one is imported (of course :)) and the license plate it came up with was from Texas, what are the odds?

Thanks again for the information. Seems like a lot is missing for the transmission control linkage: I assume when i will make an order at ClassicCarIndustries or Summit the quality is enough/good? Since i'm based in the EU/Netherlands, i will make probably one big order in the coming weeks...

Since the distributor appears to be aftermarket with no vacuum advance, yes, the vacuum advance port on the carb would be capped as well as the small port on the rear of the carb. Comment: If you intend your car to be a cruise car with with the A/C functional, IMO, you need the vacuum advance...

Right side = after two layers of Rust-Oleum Left side = after two layers of Rust-Oleum and one round by hand with 3M final striping pads

ok thanks, any suggestions on that? Or could i use my 3M® "Super Fast" Black Urethane Windshield Adhesive

WHY do you have the PVC inlet connection AND the carb's fuel evaporation/bowl vent plugged/capped off. I bought this as is and have not unplugged anything. By capping the PCV will result in an extremely rich idle fuel mixture and low idle RPM. Capping the fuel bowl vent connection will cause hot...

I'm ordering the most rubbers and sealings for my GTX 1968 restoration. I have everything for the doors, windows and trunk. Anyone know what here should be supposed to fit between the outer chrome and the paint there is a small 'rail' for water: It looks like an over painted rubber..?

I have 15Liter of Rust-Oleum, two coats are enough to go through 2 paints layers and 1,5 primer layers, almost at bare metal. Tail Panel is off the car :)

Rust-Oleum smells like gasoline on steroids, it does not burn right in you hands. I take the second coat right now, i can see the bare metal.

So it is normal to run it without? Also with an aftermarket radiator?

In Europe i cannot find Aircraft paint stripper, so I'm using Rustoleum paint stripper, it seems to be working fine, the GTX has 2 layers of paint on it, and the first seems to be getting of quickly. Any other experience with this product?

Thanks everyone, i will rebuilt it and use it!

Hi I'm looking for a coolant overflow tank instead (plastic) instead of a aluminum coolant recovery tank, i just don't like them. I did not find anything on Classic Industries, any other options? I did find something on Ebay...

Interesting, what would you set-up on a stock 440?

Great, know i will try to find something like this: :)