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I hear what your saying, but it was a clear day, high noon, brake and signal lights were on. I was turning left into a private parking lot and as I proceded to turn, there was vehiche activity in the parking lot so I stopped untill the cars were out of the way. Then bang. The driver said "I...

Might do that. We'll see.

Funny you should say this - Aviva are the people I'm dealing with - through Elite - through Hagerty.

I will update.

Meeting with an appraiser tomorrow, Hope he knows his shite. So get this - my policy is with Hagerty, but they subed out the policy to another company, who is under the umbrella of a bigger company and the first call I made was to my broker - 4 layers (so far). I'm a bit nervous about the...

After a rear end collision, I am in need of left and right tail light bezels and / or complete assemblies. They need to be in very good to excellent / NOS condition. Also need passenger side top quarter panel stainless moulding as shown in photo. Any leads to the above would be greatly...

Distracred driving - this is the result. After 5 years of getting my car the way I wanted it, this is what happens when the other driver is on their cell phone and isn't paying attention. I was stopped to turn left and this guy plows into me. Ask me how I feel. Anyhow, no one was hurt. Now I get...

I just did the same conversion on my 62 300. Same issue with bleeding. I was not paying attention to how I plumbed the brake lines through the brake valve. I had it backwards. After changing the lines around all went smooth. Typically the front resivoir on the master feeds the rear brakes.

PM sent.

I came upon the following product - https://www.studiohotrods.com/boostmasterinfo and was wondering if any members have used this product or have any additional info / reviews. This product is offered for GM vehicles, but it doesn't look like it would be to hard to adapt to our Mopars. Opinions?

As others have sugessted, check fuel pump pressure. A common issue with these Mopar engines is the FUEL PUMP PUSH ROD - check the length - it should spec out at 3.22 inches.

I chased a leak similar to your issue. Tried everything. In the end, it was this puppy that was my problem. Remove your oil sender unit and apply air pressure to the oil passage and watch for leakage.

I once had a similar issue with a misfire. Tried everything under the sun to fix it. In the end, it was a crack in one of the cylinder walls. Had to sleeve the block.

I installed the 2.5 degree shims and it seems to have made a difference. Next week I'll be past the recommended break in period and then I'll be doing some full throttle runs / shifts.

I agree. Bought this 1962 300 17 years ago and have put 30k miles on her since. Bone stock and un-restored. A real pleasure to drive.

Maybe a little off topic, but 2 years ago I reconditioned / polished every single piece of trim, with the exception of pot metal pieces, on my 64 Polara. I spent about $300 on supplies. It took me about 30 hours to do it all. This included dent removal, removing any anodizing etc. I also painted...

I swapped the tires side to side and front to rear to help with tire wear. Seems to have made a difference. Going on a long distance tour next week and I'll have a good feel for the changes. I also adjusted the tie rods sleeves 1/2 turn. Steering wheel is now centered. Small changes - great...

Thanks for this. I do have radials. I'll switch the tires side to side and see what happens. Do I need to swap the rear tires side to side as well? In regards to the steering wheel center, it needs to rotate counter clock wise to be centered.

Some do and some don't. Our roads are all over the map.

After removing the oil pan, I found this little gem in the crankcase - it's the "cap" of the main seal retainer. I decided to replace the pan bolts with studs, All studs were were installed with a drop of blue locktite, with the exception of the two pan bolt holes in the raer main seal...