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Lately I've had a weird sudden loss of power.
Car starts with no issues. Then about 15 mins later it just dies, so l restart with no issues after that. Happened yesterday while out on a drive so pulled off the road and restarted.
With the car running, l've played with the battery cables...
What really sucks is that the sending unit works when I test it outside the tank, it will bring the gauge up to 3/4. It seems like its upside down when its installed, but it only goes in one way.:wtf:
I have a old friend from 3rd grade who is kind of the off grid guy, someone from 1930 or so, can't weigh 100lbs, so cheap he cuts firewood for heat and burns the wood at smoldering stage with just enough air to get the most out of the free wood he cuts in his woods. Not sure what his schedule...
Retard = larger ICL number.
108 ICL is the most advanced of all numbers you posted.
The R4 position, 110 ICL is 2 degrees retarded relative to 108 ICL.
I have read about those cad plated China ones giving trouble for folks after a couple of years. I sent my Bendix to Booster Dewey ( not the actual business name ) in Oregon ( now Washington State ) for a rebuild, super happy with the results.
https://www.powerbrakebooster.com/services
68 Plymouth Roadrunner for sale with a 440 4 speed. Was originally a 383 auto car. No fender tag or build and not originally triple black. I do have the original short block that goes with car. Car has no rust and has had new quarters, new trunk and new floor pan done. Bumpers are new and shine...
I have seen badly damaged top radiator supports from an engine removal gone wrong, and I bet that happened a few times with these old cars. If it was mine, I would either fix those welds and grind off the not correct numbers, or probably easier would be to buy a new piece from AMD and weld it...