Search results for query: alternator bypass

120 amp alternator removed from a running Mopar small block. It probably has 500 miles on it and was new when purchased, not remanufactured. This is the external regulator version so you can keep your factory regulator and the associated wiring. It works with factory brackets as well. Super easy...

If you believe the dual fusible link theory then the diagram Nacho posted supplying the high load fan direct off the upgraded alternator source is by far the better choice. I'd still add an inline fuse for the fan circuit. The way your diagram is now; there is absolutely no protection...

Need to....probably not. Want to....I would suggest it. An internally regulated alternator will produce a steady output at all rpms so it would seem to create a more stable system. A Denso type upgrade is very simple and requires only one new wire (from sense at alternator direct to battery) and...

How many cfm is that fan? More and likely that little 75 amp alternator ain’t going to run the fan/fans. Fix the wiring problem, ammeter bypass. Probably need a bigger alternator with alot more idling amps.

If you want to run a 10 gauge wire to the battery or the post on the starter relay, you'd use a 14 gauge fusible link. The method I am aware of in selecting is whatever size wire you use, subtract 4. So, 12 gauge would be 16, 10 is 14, 8 would be 12 etc. You will get many responses whether to...

I disagree on the ammeter, my ammeter in my 70 is constructed exactly the same as my 75 truck, studs pushed thru a strap. That connection can get loose and cause heat, just reaching g up behind a dash with a wrench and tightening it is a bad idea, 2 wrenches so you do not stress the connection...

UPDATE (and yes, there's a reason I'm specifically quoting these two gentlemen here, as you'll see...): First off, my apologies to everyone. Seems all that transpired yesterday was a LIE! Let me explain... I go through everything again this morning, then head to town to fetch a new relay...

I know this subject has been discussed endlessly, but this might be a bit different. I converted my 69 Dart over to a volt meter per Mopar Action (RE), and that works quite well. On my 69 RR I’d like to keep my amp meter which works fine. What if I bypass the bulkhead connection to and from the...

First place I'd look is the bulkhead connector where the alternator wire passes thru, and see if its melted; next place to check is the ammeter. There is probably a poor or melted connection somewhere causing a voltage/amp drop. With running accessories like the fuel injection, sound system...

What older mopars have the loads on the alternator side of the ammeter?

Battery is only 1-2 years old. I ran the sense wire to the starter relay main stud with a fusible link, which is also where the #8 alternator charge wire is. The MAD bypass deal.

About the Mad Electrical bypass? Just a few. Do a search on “ammeter”, plenty of past threads here on the subject, lots of opinions and some facts. I’m running 130amp alternators, lots of added electrical loads (Including a Snipper/Hyperspark), correctly loaded on the alternator side of the...

Have you considered going to a Denso type alternator with internal regulation so you can bypass the firewall mounted regulator? I made the switch from factory 1 wire alternator to the 60a Denso and it is perfect. Rock solid 14a at idle with lights and accessories on. Used the factory 69 BB...

So nothing goes to the positive and negative posts under the dash. Got it.

That is WAY over my head. I know almost nothing about wiring. I did install some type of "ammeter bypass" a few years ago so power doesn't go through the amp meter (I think that's what I did) and it goes through a really big fuse instead (100A I think?). It is a 1970 plymouth road runner with...

Did you retain the original wiring to the ammeter and run and additional heavier gage wire from the alternator to the battery?

Its very easy to wire in your own relays. The headlamps do run thru the bulkhead and can have voltage drop. But lets back up a bit first. Measure the battery voltage at idle with the lights on. If it's low of fluctuating the relays will not help. If it's ok check the voltage at the headlamps...

Does not matter if you run a one wire alternator or standard alternator the wiring stays the same. There is no ammeter. You bypass it. Dakota has a voltmeter.

Do you mean by-pass the ammeter? Did you read the Mad article carefully as to what vehicle type it was intended to address? You read all the ammeter/charging system threads here and concluded the Mad Electric approach is what everyone recommends? Bypass the bulkhead connector charging system...

I kinda have mine like that now. The exception is that the stock black and red wires are still connected to the ammeter. They still go through the bulkhead, but the OEM wire going from the starter relay to through the bulkhead is also a fusible link. 1. I understand that it's better to...