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That angle can be somewhat corrected by loosening the three nuts/bolts that hold the column bracket to the framework under the dash. The lower end can swivel in the firewall bracket - no loosening should be necessary BUT if need be there are two bolts you can back off from under the dash as well.
Installed the new coil with the P-II unit, bypassed the resister with a jump wire and the engine started right up. Removed the resister and saw the metal conductor rod is broken. Might have been the cause of heating up and restricting voltage to the original coil. No idea if it broke before...
My lengthy reply left out my details, let it remain a mystery!
Or not:
I'll say I am not a morning person and the idea of getting all wet in the morning does not appeal to me, but I did it when I still had an office job. Now that I am WFH its a before bed thing for me. If I will be going out to...
Well my input on the matter: i e always ran "Super Comp Hookers (2-piece jobbies) & I recently got a pair of TTI's - i will NEVER use any header other than TTI's .. ever again - when they say " You get what you pay for" ~ TTI's have it in Spades my friend.
Yes the original owner was going to replace the rings and then set it to the side and started having Health issues. Never got back to it. I’m not sure why he pulled the crank but it’s all the original parts the engine.
You are overthinking the drilling of the taillight panel. Mark the holes,use a sharp 1/8 th inch drill bit for the pilot holes,then drill the holes out to 1/4 inch.
Not sure about the speedo....but I just replaced the Clock with a tictoktach....it was easy to do without removing the dash. 3 screws and it came right out. Yes...I was on my back looing up. Seat still in. But it was doable for sure. I also read I had to remove the dash to do the tach.