Search results for query: ammeter gauge bypass

I have a 'square back' alternator, two field tabs, one of which I have grounded to the case. I've replaced the regulator and starter relay, tied the ammeter wires together and how have charging to the battery, 13.2 0 13/7V at idle. I will put a #12 fuesable link or two in the system, one from...

I Send My Ammeter Gauge Out To Classic Instruments To Get Converted To a Voltmeter.. Just Wondering What Other Changes I Need To Do To The Wiring Harness For This Change To Volts? Thank You

So, a while back I upgraded my 67 Belvedere to HEI, and this weekend I'll finally get around to pulling the harness and removing all the unused wires from the old ignition. I've also been reading up on ammeter/bulkhead bypass and figure this would be a good time. Seems like there's a lot of...

Heck....the truck is 47 years old. I'm amazed that I haven't had to do any front axle service on it yet. I did bypass the ammeter using a modified version of the MAD electrical schematic.... Original factory arrangement: Modified arrangement: Instead of having the red and black wire go...

Wherever the shunt therm can be discussed ( myself have called "shunt" the brass path built into the ammeter just for simplicity ) there is NO WAY to move that "shunt" outside the ammeter, let's say or imagine for a minute it could be moved to the engine bay as suggested, because that will make...

Changed my 2 gauge set-up ( Temp & Oil Pressure) to a 3 gauge. I've added a Voltmeter ready for the ammeter bypass.

Just like a cow chewing its cud......same old stuff...over and over again without any "unreal" information presented to prove/disprove statment....btw....how much stress is unnecessary to the gauge? BOB RENTON

Alternator output wire to Battery Positive or Starter relay should be sized according to the alternator rating and current demand. The fuse at the battery / starter relay should be a slow-blow fuse like a maxi-fuse or mega-fuse that is rated to protect the wire gauge size. The fuse is there to...

I’m building a 1967 GTX for a customer and have a couple questions regarding the charging system. The car is a 1967 GTX, it’s a 440 non a/c car that is getting a Procharger and a FiTech fuel injection. We’ve relocated the battery to the trunk and have run 4 gauge wire from the battery to the...

Yes, the rest of his original bypass is still done, only changing the placement of the second fusible link. I really don't understand which way is better or safer, and why. I did the conventional MAD bypass on my Road Runner and his new recommendation on my Super Bee.

I don't care what cars today have. Does our 60s car have the same electronics as a 2019 dodge pick up? NO so don't compare . So as you stated the only fuse , is the fuseable link on the engine side of bulkhead. You fry your fuseable link, the system is not dead, until you turn off your car...

All I could think of: Undo the dimmer bypass. Don't plug the dimmer in yet. Turn on PARKING lamps first. Do you still have gauge lights? If no....Turn on HEADLAMPS. Any gauge lamps on? If the answer is no then read on. Plug the dimmer back in, as that does not appear to be the issue. 1) Are...

Nacho, I am trying to understand what you are saying here. First, I understand that you are adamant about keeping the stock ammeter, but some of us are not. I for one saw first hand the damage caused when my Grandpas 1970 Satellite burned up in 1984. Started at the ammeter. Second, I value...

My ammeter just failed, I imagine that a loose connection at it or some other cause made the insulator when out and shorted the gauge. No real smoke or smell, but all I know now is there power to the ammeter but not out, causing no power in the car all together. I agree with 72roadrunnergtx...

I put in a new Powermaster 95 amp alternator and was advised to replace my old electromechanical VR to a new solid state one. I did that, but first, checked my voltage at the battery with the old one. I got 14.6 volts while running. Replaced with the new VR and now get 12.9 volts at the battery...

I thought I said you could if you chose to but that is not what I would do. Can you leave all the OEM wiring in place, sure. Not what I would do. I dislike ammeters, never run them, nor leave them connected in any car I have. My usual comment regarding the OEM charge path is leave it all in...

Original was 68 rr with ac. This one is 70 RR 383 bone stock. Have replaced or replacing all harnesses. Thanks again!!! Updated to put in the listing of current car. Got it from another member after a lot of negotiation back and forth. Great member! SOLD - 1970 Roadrunner | For B Bodies Only...

Thank you all for the input. I should have been more specific in my question, and my soldering experience. In the past I've been successful soldering 2 pieces of stranded copper together. What I'm NOT familiar with is soldering a 10awg splice with non-insulated butt connectors. I looked...

Yes, Ehrenburg's article talks about how fleet vehicles had a factory Chrysler bulkhead bypass, eliminating the trouble spots, which he shows some photos of but then he goes into this: 4. To straighten out the wiring problem permanently, you need some decent supplies. A few feet of...

There are some nice upgrades to consider about wiring, like if you get new harness, it could be complemented with parallel paths out of the bulkhead to help for the loads requirements, since packard terminals are weak above 30-35 amps. Ammeter will be fine but the bulkhead terminals not so fine...