Search results for query: ammeter gauge bypass

The ammeter is a good gauge. The only issues with it can be the cardboard insulators. But if connections are tight and insulators in good shape there isn't going to be an issue with it. The big issue with these cars is the bulkhead connectors. The thick black and thick red wires bring current...

If your 65 has the same style bulkhead as later models, then yes I think it is a wise conversion. I have done the MAD conversion on 5 cars now, actually the last 2 are a variant of it. The MAD version gets rid of the heavy current going through the weak connections in the bulkhead and...

ABSOLUTELLY FALSE the ammeter has NOTHING TO DO with what we are looking at. The blue wire circuit has NO RELATION with the ammeter wiring or ammeter itself. and even an alt upgrade along with a bulkhead bypass or parallel path is allways something I advice to prevent charging network...

Sure! is at each own decision but allways based on the correct statements and proceedments ;) between batt and starter relay? No need for that, The only EXTRA/ADDED protection with a fuse link there is the wire between starter relay and solenoid aside the solenoid itself. The load for the...

I preffer to bypass the bulkhead before the ammeter! Bulkhead is the weakest point of the system allong with the pooorly rated alternators installed from factory, not the ammeter. use the old amm red wire to feed the gauge pod ? but from where ? you need a switched source for them, if now will...

Just curious if its a good idea to bypass the ammeter? Im installing a 10Gauge wire and want ability to put a new alternator down the road, 100amps. right now i have a 60amp stock alternator. i will have stock items in the car not much is changed but who knows what ill decide to add later...

make sure the VR is actually grounded to the firewall and you have a great battery to body ground. the MAD BYPASS is something I would HIGHLY recommend. I just got done doing it on my 74. Google for information. bypass the ammeter and bulkhead and add a volt gauge

Your so right nacho, Your blue wire is fried and has nothing to do with the amp gauge. Good luck in getting it working.

Thanks for responding. Since I was going to remove the original black alt feed wire, I was going to move the 14ga link (that attaches to starter relay) from its bulkhead slot to the old alt feed wire bulkhead slot to power the wires under the dash. Then, remove old ammeter red wire from bulk...

Short answer, yes, as originally designed. As Nacho describes, the fusible link goes at the battery side of the charging circuit, normally at the starter relay. It protects the larger gauge unfused wiring from the current potential only available from the battery. No need for a fusible link on...

That is not the purpose of the ammeter used in Chrysler products of the time. It is there to provide real time info on the charge/discharge state of the battery only, nothing else. Ammeters used for this purpose are commonly referred to as “battery ammeters” in the automotive industry. If it’s...

Just as an update, I looked at it more thoroughly while laying in my back getting cut in half by the sill plate (lol) and determined that some one had definitely been in there before. The factory one piece rectangular insulator strip on the back side was long gone with just a small piece of...

I've done this in a pinch, I used insulated butt connectors but pulled the insulation off. Leave just enough wire exposed to get the solder on the wire and put the heat to the connector not the wire. To combat corrosion and wire fatigue now that it's solid at least at the connector I use a high...

I would bypass the factory ammeter. just connect the wires to complete the circuit. the ammeter might be on its way out. 16 -17 volts way too high. easy enough to by pass ammeter to test. When testing wiring harness you are disconnecting the wire from the alternator and other items etc when...

1. I took my power from the starter relay stud (where the alternator also connects). 2. I was able to connect a jumper wire at the bulkhead connector (65 has screws for ammeter connections) to bypass the amp gauge (eliminate any load) and added a voltmeter to my console to monitor charging. Mike

no need for bypass the ammeter, just make a path surrounding the bulkhead, upgrade your alt with one able to feed 50-55 iddling ( 45 is good too but more, better ) and you'll be done http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0/all.html You just need to UNDERSTAND how it works and...

Happy to help get some new blood into Mopars and just got done putting together a 72 green satellite. Also plan on this costing more than expected, do you plan on keeping this car and modifying it? Also assuming not much mechanic experience. Assuming you can move the crank by hand, if frozen...

Dont shark.

It is a very useful gauge. What makes it dangerous is 50 plus year old wiring and and loading circuits with accessories. Every electrical powered accessory is measured across the amp gauge. You can keep some load off the original wiring by using relays to switch the load of higher amp (added)...

I'm in a delimma about what to do with the Red Battery and Black Alternator wires on my car. I have a NEW engine harness and a NEW bulkhead disconnect. Previously, I had a bad meltdown at the Black Alternator Packard connection and a semi-meltdown on the Ignition Run connection. The Red...