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wheels don't have to be off the ground, you just want to take weight off so you can turn the bolts.. if you turn them without lifting the car a bit you are turning that bolt with the cars whole weight on them which is.. hard.. and hard on the bolt. I usually lift the car a bit.. adjust.. lower...

Well that didn't work. About an inch short of reconnecting the steering shaft coupler to the steering box. I guess I'll take it apart and see if I can find anything.

Post some photos of your GTX.

I find the narrowboat thing interesting... except you still have to deal with people now and then..

I got this one $69... works amazingly well as long as you have a decent vice to hold it. Have not had a bad flare yet. There are videos on how to use them but it's literally step 1, 2 then 3... P.S. it's one of my favorite tools now, made life soo much easier.. i wish it had something that...

Heavy rain again today :( Was nice having like a month of no rain :)

I also own the Eastwood flare tool like KD posted, it's awesome.

3/16"? Mike

It requires a special hole saw, just larger than the stud OD to machine the swaged area away. They are available to my knowledge. Mike

If you desire the aluminum Torque Flite you must have the 62 up crankshaft. The earlier crank is extended to allow the converter studs to fit thru the crankshaft flange to accept the fastener nuts. It is a less desirable setup and less durable. Mike

Daily rant? Okay..... STOP coming up to me and blabbing on and on about yourself and what you are doing. I am friggin tired of people that do this and it shows no signs of slowing down. I get dudes calling me that NEVER ask what I am doing, they just call to perform some unrequested...

Based on what I've read (searching FBBO), I'll have to weld in a bushing to get the centering hole to around .5 like the OEM - correct?

What's that tell you about the cost of these things?

Looking still...