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A factory white car is either the worst or second worst color. Severely limits its finished value. I dare say it’d be worth more with a color change, even if done to concour level. I saw a bronze hemi road runner sell in the last month that was perfectly changed over to black and it brought...

The engine the Six pack was on was some cast crank deal I didn’t build. It idled like a pro stocker. Wild guess would be something like a 484 mp type. Around that time I was fooling with both a 750 vacuum Holley and also an 850 dp. Could’ve been either. I had a few cars at the same time back then.

I linked up the ac delco on Amazon and the adapter for the wiring earlier in the thread.

Go right ahead and ask whatever you need. We do have a few puds that will post “do a search,” but that’s just because they like to whine and complain. Best thing for them to do is leave threads alone when they claim they don’t want to see them. Meanwhile you can collect the latest information...

Congrats. I have savored the long game working out a few times. Those are the best. Do the right thing, reMopar that Mopar! Perfect time, if a small Chebby fit then an A engine will go in too.

RIP Bob. Should’ve used NGK in the ole pacemaker like I told ya.

I didn’t either, until I put that rpm intake and four barrel on my 440.

Anything from factory up to a 750 vacuum secondary will work. The smaller carbs will limit the power. You’ll get guys that will tell you a big carb will not have response, I only know what works because I’ve actually done before and after myself. I’ve been there and done that with a 70 383 HP...

Yeah, seriously. I’ve dealt with enough rust to know I’m not doing that again. Thirty years in the hobby will do that to you. Maybe someday I’ll find the right 73-74 rr, but it’s not looking good on that front. Any of the rust free ones are so expensive of an ask that it’s basically the same...

Stick with cars that have parts support, or to ones like my rust free CA 69 GTX.

Gateway had a green 69 bee in the last year with them on it. You could see in the pics the wheels jut way out. I can’t say if it would cause a rub. Just a weird look on these cars.

I would just order a seal kit from rock auto or one of those rebuilders mentioned and trust it will work.

That lack of backspacing options cost them a sale to me. I’m sure they don’t care, but looks like this will cost them again. I’ve seen other 69 b body cars with them and they look terrible with the wheels so far out on the front and I want them inside the well out back.

I saw this car, I click on these and realize what rusty **** piles they are and forget about getting one again. Look at very last few photos. Car looks good until you see that, plus a few that show some crappy spot in paint, especially the hood...

I have avoided the 73-4 due to metal not being available. I like those a lot. I do think the tin grille truck patches for over the wheels might be a possible thing to try if needed. I keep getting the itch for a different car. Then I see stuff like the inch or more of bondo that was used and...

Well that’s not bad either. I have wished my 69 X was a 68 since I bought it. Just like those better.

68 X and 69 Bee. Nice.

Shame they did it the wrong way by doing the topside first. Looks plenty nice enough to drive. I’d find a way to seal that bottom up with something to preserve it and let it go at that. You will be wishing you’d just bought a finished car once you tear this apart and see all the time and money...

The issue is people want to leave it open so they can skip transfer and property taxes. Sticks them with doing so by writing in their name. Ot they won’t have a title to sell it with, so it loses value. I’m not into them having something in my name, so it kinda forces their hand. Sooner they...

These days I do a bill of sale and still do what I always did that really pisses off the buyer. I write their name in the blank on the title.