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Glen-Ray does excellent work IMHO, and Bob goes out of his way to make sure it has the right part numbers and date codes. It's unfortunate that he's not taking in any more work.
I go halfway. I use a thin steel plate with a 1/2" hole in it to block the exh xover. You want some heat to vapourise the fuel. Eventually the intake will heat soak with or without the exh over in place.
29 in 1980. Lived there until 2015 when we bought my mother-in-laws house after she passed away. We got out of a deteriorating community with a high tax rate to stable area with better taxes. This house was dated so we made several upgrades but well worth it.
In the picture it appears that your rotor is messed up, the long metal part that contacts the center of the cap looks flattened and twisted. If it is, it probably won't start, even if the plug wires are on correctly...
If you haven't had the distributor out then yes the rotor is pointing 180 off but if you're just changing wires you don't care about the timing mark or the rotor. Number one is to the downward side of the clip that holds the cap down. Then it's 18436572, counter clockwise
I'm sure you'll get some real advice from the resident brain trust, but I believe in the path of least resistance. How about just painting it black?
What is the reason for wanting it to be removed?
This is a Pair of 1960's Plymouth Fury Emblems. #2524233
I believe they are correct for 1965 to 1967. They are in
good condition except one has a broken peg. $10.00. Local
pickup, or buyer pays shipping
Hello Mopar brothers. I’m trying to remove the second hand on my Rallye tic toc tac clock. I’m going to either fix the clock or convert to quartz. I’ve been pulling on this second hand with some pretty decent force but not coming off. Does it thread on some way? What am I overlooking? Any help...