Search results for query: *

Mine was leaking at the reverse gear seal.

Nothing. It holds moisture. Moisture causes rust. It was an option on my year anyway.

Do you have a stock hood now ? Suggestion : Measure and scribe the area for the clearance required. Measure height above stock hood for clearance required. Research scoops that would suit your requirements, for both area & height. Cut hood within the new scoops configuration. Glass the scoop...

Yes - I had a spare yoke I slid in the rear. Wasn’t quite ready for the lube that ran out the front though when I loosened up the bolts a little.

Sweaty Rabbit…are you needing a 4376 center for a 70 model or a 69 1/2 A12 center carb? The A12 carbs did not come on 70 models and have 69 1/2 part numbers that are different than 70 part numbers. Also what are you asking for the 4144?

Be done in no time!!

That is my intention as mechanically it’s functioning fine. But I would like to replace the tail housing gasket, fix whatever is going on up front, and install shift fork seals. Right now I’m hoping that doesn’t get into pulling it all apart. I’m hoping I can just unbolt the tail housing and...

I feel your not wanting to hurt your back. This was my way to install my billet 48RE converter after replacing the front seal and bushing. Sorry about the sideways pictures. I love thinking outside the box.

Sorry, wrong link, try this one - Northeast Mighty Mopar Club | Facebook

The early redneck versions did not have the red tension straps. :lol:

yes they were! What is the name of the facebook group? When I click the link it takes me to youtube.

...Details (driver side door for reference): Bracket, rubber snubber/bumper, and mounting nuts are inside the door. Looking downward and outward: *** Looking forward: *** Looking aft: *** Plate with two threaded "bolts" is inserted from outside of the door. Looking upwards at bottom...

Weld the piece in or use steel pop rivets and sealer. Mike

Thanks for the pics Wayne. I bet my fuel filler grommet is in backwards. :thumbsup:

Any examples of what I think you are proposing is to leave the entire shock mounting area and weld the front down bars to the top of the rails and the shock mount, leaving the top and horizontal sections of the inner to bolt the outer fender to. Is that your plan? If so you will only gain a...

Resto Rick sells some stuff that if applied correctly looks nice.

Well that's lovely. I think I might just take it to a dude down the street who does restorations. He says he has a couple tricks to get it off. But I agree, it looks like it needs something welded to it (either to the end or around it). Do the threads inside the sleeve nut go the full...

If they are hollow a easy out might work. Mike

Agree it is a 1970 or older because of the front bolt spacing. 1970 and 1969 had a plastic strap that wrapped around the back of the arm rest to cover up the vinyl seam. 1968 and older did not have that strap. Reason I asked previously what the back looked like.

I was working on my sound deafening, heat, defense, rubber junk that was on my floor last year when it was like -5° outside and because it was so cold, it came off in one chunk as opposed to being tar. I was wondering if this was a little bit of the same situation