Search results for query: *

If you just want to remove the old factory undercoating, and replace it with basically the same, RUSFRE works pretty good for the new undercoating. I scrapped my Dart with a propane torch. Then sprayed with RUSFRE. If you are redoing the bottom of the car for paint, ZYZZYX' s method looks...

I have 2 of those brackets for some reason, now I know where one goes.

Same issue with my Road Runner, low and medium work fine, if I wiggle the switch on high it will work, till you hit a bump. Got another used switch, same identical problem. This is after cleaning like you did.

No oil out of the vent this am. Not sure if I will get a test run in yet this fall. Will keep informed.

I have about 21 pts in it. When I fire it, it will be on jack stands. The trans has been dyno tested, will keep a close eye on it. Thanks again everyone!

Thank you for your answers. So I believe that I will probably end up in the 10 1/2 to 11 1/2 qt area. Will try 11 or 11 1/2 qts for the start up, and check it as soon as it will idle. This is all new for me, just swapped out a 4-speed. New Hemi build, so there's going to be alot going on...

FSM says 15 1/2 to 18 1/2 pts. Which is it? Have a Moroso deep pan, there's a 2 quart add on, plus the #6 lines to radiator and then a small remote cooler in front of the radiator. I have one qt in the converter already. My question is really about the FSM quantity.

I have two of S&M Electro front speakers in two of my cars. Two small speakers on a bracket, they fit. They're from Blaine, Minnesota.

Year to year same model can be different. My '69 Dart has '70 seats in it. The front is okay, but the rear seat back attaches differently. So my bottom rear seat holds the back bottom in place.

Hey, I resemble that remark!

FBO Ignition has one, almost looks like the orginal. Not sure who makes this square one. The one on my firewall is the FBO. Not sure why my pictures often get turned around!

There are solid state regulators for the round back alternator.

I've had a couple of universal foam kits for seats that I have recovered, but I only have about 2 1/2 ft left, or I would help you out. The kit is offered by Legendary, I believe, but it's been awhile.

The Dakota starters are fine. Went through all of this about 4 threads down this page. There are 2 cable/wire relocation studs available. One is vertical and the other is horizontal. You may not want the vertical, that one interfered with the block on my Hemi. My starter is a Denso. What...

Okay, is the 4 door seat that you are asking about local? Or you buy and ship it to find out? Make sure to ask here in the Charger forum.

I would be surprised if they would attach the same. My '69 Dart for instance, for some reason has '70 seats in it. The rear seat back fits, but I can not attach the bottom of the seat back. It hangs at the top by the package tray, and the seat bottom holds it in place. Until I get lucky...

1/4" course, with large captured washers. Mega Parts has them. Or you could go basic washer and bolt from the hardware store .

This is confusing to me, you have an old style points regulater, but your new alternator has two spades on it. Isn't that a square back alternator? Shouldn't you have a round back alternator with one spade? How did you connect both spades to your one spade harness? Don't square back...

I don't think that you can cross the engine harnesses, the regulator, alternator and even the ballast are different. I don't know what he has.

Heavy rods. I put H-beams in mine. Pictures of the weight that was removed, a little over 4 lbs. May be why he didn't want to balance it. I really liked that weight that was welded to the flange!