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Either will work. When the current block didn't have the ear at the front the block idea was out. I came up with the transmission ear idea. Didn't know if it was strong enough when it was built. But they have proven themselves. Run the heims 90 degrees to each other to elimnate bind. These just...

Remove the torsion bar adjusters, strut rod nuts, pop the knuckles loose at upper ball joint, remove the torsion bar pivot stud nuts. Then tap on the pivot studs with a piece of brass. It'll all come out together. Doug

I've done Hemi springs in the car years ago. Used the standard bolt on the shaft tool. But instead of the straight handle I used a curved handle for setting lift bars on a trailer. Drilled a hole and welded a nut at the bottom. Then ran a bolt in so it wouldn't pivot around on the tool base. Doug

Call Jeff Day at Precision Machine. Maybe he or his Dad will remember them. Doug

It has to have a fore/aft limiter. Put it where it's the easiest. I've used the hole down below the fuel pump seen in this picture. Weld a tube vertically in the K frame sticking up at the same height as the block ear. Then run a bolt through the block hole (requires a reducer sleeve) to the...

I ran one many years ago with a 4 speed. It didn't bog but it wasn't fast either. Running on just the center carb with the outers disconnected was much faster up tp about 3700 rpm. Doug

Make sure the regulator is grounded well. If it isn't, it will over charge. I'm assuming this is an original single feed wire (along with the thick bolt on battery feed) style alternator. Doug

I agree the 9 second zone is more intense. I didn't mine doing the cage and other minor stuff. The pain in the but is recertifying the cage every 3 years. The don't do anything except a 5 minte sonic check on a few bars. What is the hell is that? They learn nothing. If it certed the first time...

Anyone can do a nice job. Just depends if you want to take the time. My cage took a while. But I was told if if was going to be tigged to fit the tubes tight. So tight it was. Doug

I had trouble with vacuum leaks that I thought were at teh corner of the tray. Turns out it was the very upper corner of the head gasket. Not much clamp load in that area. Now during builds a little Ultar Grey is added at the top 1/2" or so of the head gasket surfaces. The first time fixed it...

Metal finished is just basically finished welds. Thats why when the tunnel was welded in, it was welded on both sides to add more thickness before grinding. Surely not a necessity, just looks nicer. Don't be afraid to do the tunnel. It was quite easy. The snount bars can stay in the wheel well...

Be careful adding a ton of abitrary caster. From the Chrysler tech paper on bump stee; For every one degree of caster change the outer tie rod moves vertically .100". This .100" movement causes the wheel to steer aproximately 3/32", x 2 for two wheels. Example ; Say you have a perfect toe...

The trans tunnel. Cut th.e hole leaving the throttle pedal mount and the stock tunnel are from the torsion bar cross member rearward. It's roughly overall a 2" larger radius than the stock tunnel. Didn't have a large enough piece of metal. Just welded two pieces together that were laying around...

It was a newer QA-1. I was told was their later deal copying Gerst. I haven't seen a Gerst so don't know about them. When asked about the bump steer they told me I didn't understand what I was talking about. Shortly afterwards they publish the instructions shown in post #3. It's exactly what I...

I've installed them and driven them. They're expensive, (Over $5K) not much lighter, the bump steer takes a huge spacer to straighten it out. The manual rack steering effort is very high as well. I wouldn't do it. Doug

The two items that were a great help for access was pushing the firewall back and enlarging the trans tunnel. The firewall goes back pretty easy with a bottle jack and some wood across the the front of the firewall. The bottle jack on the K frame and a 4x4 betweeen the jack and firewall board...

The ony thing that is tough is the #5 plug. And that due more to header design than the inner fenders. The motor can be out in 1 hour, trans in 30 minutes. We swapped a water pump in between rounds this summer in less than 10 minutes. What do you need to access that inner fender removal will...

The weight you remove isn't worth the amount of effort. The top of the shock tower is an integral part of the suspension. In fact if the car wheelies a lot that area needs to be reinforced. Mines been running long wheelies for 13 years. Body is still arrow straight. With no inners, mud, rubber...

I ran gaskets on the plate on my previous car. After a while they would leak. This car has used Ultra Grey with no gaskets for 13 years, zero leaks. No mid plate in mine. Same trans case and tail housing (1965) since the day it was built . Snout bars outside the engine compartment have two good...

I know where that limiter resides. Mine has not only all the firewall holes welded but the air intake for the heater in the right A pillar and the rubber drain plugs in the floor pan. Good fire protection is something that many don't think about, but they should. car also has a 10lb fire system...