Rebuilding LemonWedge.

[LemonWedge]

I know I’m bouncing around a little here, but just want confirmation from someone that’s removed torsion bars before. I’ve heard horror stories on this task.
Once I have the adjuster studs completely removed from the lower control arms; all should be safe, correct?
Remove the retainer clips from the rear of the bars / backside of crossmember. Clamp the tool onto the bar, and tap it backwards until it slips out of the control arms. Then remove the control arm. Then the bar should be able to slide forward far enough to remove it from the crossmember.

Sound correct?

 

[malex]

I know I’m bouncing around a little here, but just want confirmation from someone that’s removed torsion bars before. I’ve heard horror stories on this task.
Once I have the adjuster studs completely removed from the lower control arms; all should be safe, correct?
Remove the retainer clips from the rear of the bars / backside of crossmember. Clamp the tool onto the bar, and tap it backwards until it slips out of the control arms. Then remove the control arm. Then the bar should be able to slide forward far enough to remove it from the crossmember.

Sound correct?

Yep. Or if there’s nothing behind the torsion bar (like a welded in crossmember) you can keep going right out the rear.
Mine has a crossmember added but the torsion bars will slip past underneath.

 

[khryslerkid]

I know I’m bouncing around a little here, but just want confirmation from someone that’s removed torsion bars before. I’ve heard horror stories on this task.
Once I have the adjuster studs completely removed from the lower control arms; all should be safe, correct?
Remove the retainer clips from the rear of the bars / backside of crossmember. Clamp the tool onto the bar, and tap it backwards until it slips out of the control arms. Then remove the control arm. Then the bar should be able to slide forward far enough to remove it from the crossmember.

Sound correct?

If you're upper control arms are still attached, remove the bump stops under them to allow the lower control arm to drop that much more.

 

[dvw]

Remove the torsion bar adjusters, strut rod nuts, pop the knuckles loose at upper ball joint, remove the torsion bar pivot stud nuts. Then tap on the pivot studs with a piece of brass. It'll all come out together.
Doug

 

[LemonWedge]

It has to have a fore/aft limiter. Put it where it's the easiest. I've used the hole down below the fuel pump seen in this picture. Weld a tube vertically in the K frame sticking up at the same height as the block ear. Then run a bolt through the block hole (requires a reducer sleeve) to the tube with a piece of 1/8"x1" strap. Works well, out of the way. I couldn't do it on the current car as the part of the block was milled off.
Doug

Do the limiters I’ve seen in this thread at at the transmission ears to crossmember satisfy this, or are you suggesting limiters at each end?

 

[dvw]

Either will work. When the current block didn't have the ear at the front the block idea was out. I came up with the transmission ear idea. Didn't know if it was strong enough when it was built. But they have proven themselves. Run the heims 90 degrees to each other to elimnate bind. These just used old parts that were laying around. The limiters pictured in post 105 are mine.
Doug