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No. If I have 10” drums I am keeping them and not switching to 11” if what @RemCharger says is correct. I am already in the camp that front disc rear drums are fine and rear discs are overkill.

There is a reason rebuild kits don’t always come with bands. They are not always needed.

Hi Jeff. Here are the letters...

Would you believe they don't seem to have a 225 60 15? I would have to get a 235.

The rubber gets hard when they are old and they lose traction. They can look brand new but.....

MOROSO solid motor mounts for 440 400 383 360 340 318 engines. Fits 1966 through 1972 B Bodies and 1970 through 1974 E Bodies. The MOROSO part number is 62520. The price is $35.00 for the pair plus shipping. Also have a single available for that torque side of the engine. The price on the single...

My uncle is a yuge Poncho guy. He had this 77 T/A way back when and had to sell it. 1970 400 punched .30 over with 4 bolt mains, ported Ram Air III heads, TRW pistons, Crane Fireball cam, Cloyes roller timing chain, 800 cfm Carter spreadbore carb, Edelbrock SP-4 dual-plane manifold, HEI...

Same here. You know who I am. Not a lot of 70 GTX (Burnt Orange) owners that will be racing next year. :poke:

I was there last year when Bill A. gave you the 9"s sticker. Love your 63!

Happy Thanksgiving to all here ( yeah, even you usuals )... thanks to all here for the camaraderie, the expertise, the fun, the arguments, and all the other sorta stuff that goes on here !

Those actuators need limit control switches. If they travel to far they will tear the plastic door mounts and stops off. They were also designed with a control box that worked off the limit switches. You have a lot of work ahead of you to try to fab everything up.

I like this one especially...the fabled AWD Sport Fury. :rofl:

Anyone have a steel 18 spline alignment tool they are willing to sell? An input shaft with a trashed gear would also work. Thanks Andy

Meaning you're going with rear discs too?

Cliff notes?

Well, I have more Mopar-only time than you, and that will never end. I do enjoy all the other American machinery having been surrounded by it all since my youth.

From my memory, the 2 things that you can't buy new for rear 11" brakes are the backing plates and the E brake strut. But there really is no reason to swap anyway unless just for looks.

I am trying to figure out how to empty it.

Excited to finally hook up these hideaway headlights. Not an electrician, so this is a little bit of foreign territory, but I believe I’m going down the right path by going with a double-pole, double-throw switch that will allow polarity/reverse polarity both to push and pull the actuator...

Nice find. And I grew up in Buffalo. Was there a few weeks ago.