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As the title says, I have a new Mopar crate engine which is a 2019 manufacture 5.7 crate engine. I got it new and installed it about a year ago into my 71 Charger. I finally went to fire it and no oil pressure. The engine ran for about seconds and died, I did this twice so about 30 seconds all...
Some do some dont.. my last 2 318s i tookj apart didn't.. BUT.. what i did was if you look where the plate goes the oil line ends at it with a pipe plug.. i drilled bout a 3/8" hole in the thrust plate and a .060 hole in the pipe plug (hole int he trust plate is so oil can shoot out) so i made...
Most of us have heard of the increase in flat tappet camshaft and lifter failures over the last 20 years. Some of us have actually had it happen, even more than once.
I have. FOUR times too.
The blame has never been able to be attributed to one issue but is often spread around a few things. The...
This is a OEM 1970's Twist On Oil Filler Cap. It is original,
not a china knockoff, and is in decent condition, just needs a
cleanup and repaint. I can no longer remember for sure what engine
this came off of, but I believe it will work on small and big blocks.
$15.00. Local pickup, or buyer...
My experience with the stuck bypass valve was the result of a very small metal shaving getting wedged between the pump body and the valve……. Resulting in it being stuck in the fully closed position.
This was a 340 with a Melling M72HV pump.
The result of that was a hot idle oil pressure of about...
How many miles is that?
What is the cam?
Springs/pressures?
Rocker ratio?
Oil and weight?
Oil change frequency?
If you take queues from the factory……..
Milder cam profiles, combined with less spring and lower rocker ratios……. should be more reliable than the opposite.
The same holds true for...
Well, that was quick.
Yes 833 oil change also while I was under there. I put Synchromesh in this time. What a difference. I've always had a little 1-2 clash when cold after rebuilding it years ago. I even put an entire new synchro (newer design) in when I rebuilt it. Haven't road tested it yet...
DLC is used on many items. But...going to be watching/listening for feedback. In the meantime, use the best lubricant you can get. The wagon will be getting Amsoil when I get the new bullet together. Right now since it has an appetite, $5 qt oil is what I feed it, VR1, as opposed to $12 qt Amsoil.
I've run the drill/tool CCW for about two minutes and don't feel any resistance. How long does it take to feel that. Checked the oil level and that has not gone down either. Just want to get an idea what to expect.
Another one of my stories closely related to this comment. Back in the late 70's I bought a really nice 73 2 dr Chrysler New Yorker Brougham with a transplanted 383-2 engine. It didn't run, owner said he thought there was a hole in a piston. I started getting ready to pull the engine and I...
I don't think the inquiry was vague. My reply was meant to infer that the correct amount of oil actually in the sump supercedes what a measuring stick might indicate.
That will come out. What I would do is clan the threads with a wire brush. Soak it good with a rust penetrating oil for a few days. Then put some good heat on the cast iron. Pipe wrench to twist off.
Might not be easy, but guarantee I would get it off.
Guys zinc is your last line of defense. If you’re worried using up the zinc in your oil you need better oil. Search out the oil with the highest psi oil film thats what matters first. As to zinc additives. Your oil filter filtering your zinc additives is a null point. If you’re using a good oil...